Once a major trading center in the Hanseatic League, VISBY on the ISLAND of GOTTLAND is a charming glimpse into the past, said to be the best preserved medieval city in Scandinavia. The 13th century walls are the strongest and most extensive in Scandinavia. At the opposite extreme, is Gallows Hill, probably built in the 15th century and visible at sea. The three stone pillars of the gallows were united with beams.

Prisoners were suspended on the beams with hooks and ropes, and were often left hanging until their remains either rotted, or were eaten by birds. The last execution was in 1845. Today Gallows Hill is better known as a viewpoint.

Visby is a charming town of gardens and well-kept small houses in the historic area. The Botanical Gardens are close to the beach, yet protected by the city wall from storms.

STOCKHOLM

It’s impossible to leave our visit to Sweden without stopping off in Stockholm. There are many things to do, but, as usual, I opted for the historical tour. This began at the Royal Palace which is mostly a municipal center and a chance for visitors to see the Changing of the Guard. It may not be as impressive as the ritual at Buckingham Palace, but it’s no less sincere. During their training, army recruits serve three months in the Household Guards.

From the palace it’s a short walk Stortorget (The Big Square). Notable buildings include the Swedish Academy building, home of the Nobel Prize Committee. Of more interest to me: the well in continuous use since the 13th century, and still dispensing potable water, and the small side streets like Trångsund .

Stadshuset (City Hall) is on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen Island is an interesting building built between 1911 and 1923. The entire building has eight million bricks. City hall serves the usual municipal functions, including the Registry Office for weddings. Couples choose one of two ceremonies. One takes three minutes; the other, one and a half minutes.

Within the exterior facade is a marble statue called Loki’s Punishment. The artist is Ida Matton. I was puzzled about the subject matter, though I assumed it had to do with Norse mythology. Here’s the legend behind the sculpture. Loki was a Norse trickster god who offended the gods frequently and often. Eventually, the gods captured Loki, forged a chain around him, and tied him down to three rocks inside a cave. A venomous serpent was placed above him, dripping poison onto him. Loki’s apparently very faithful and loving wife, Sigyn, sat at his side with a bowl to catch the venom. But when the bowl became full, she had to leave her husband’s side to pour it out. When this happened, the drops of venom that fell onto Loki caused him to writhe in agony. This, according to the legend, is what causes earthquakes in the human world.

Between the city hall building and the shore of Lake Mälaren is a charming pocket park, popular with tourists and residents, especially on a sunny day.

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The post From Gottland to Stockholm first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Before building his city, Charles had to acquire the land, which he “persuaded” the owner to sell by throwing him in prison until he agreed. The king also needed workers, and offered them housing. Naval crewmen were housed in an area next to the shipyard called Västerudd. Houses were simple, situated with their gables against the street, and behind the plank they could cultivate small gardens.

The king brought in experts to build his town from the ground up on land that had no water. Admiral Hans Wachtmeister (1641-1714) designed the town with a number of adaptation. Roofs were built with squares to catch rainwater. They designed ships with open bows that could scoop up water while going up river. The problem of getting water out of the ships going into dry dock for the winter when there was little tidal action to drain the ships, led to the development of pumps.

The Blekinge Museum is the repository for all things historical in Karlskrona, including Admiral Wachtmeister’s house built in 1704 and partially restored. The house befits a man of the admiral’s social standing with its symmetrical baroque design.

Visiting groups are treated to a small meal that would have been served in the late 17th century. Since Sweden was part of extensive trading networks, non local items were served. Lemons preserved in salt were a popular item. Up until the 18th century, the meal began with a pre-dinner drink. Men indulged in potent schnapps that were about 50 per cent proof, and then spiced to hide the unpleasant tastes. The spices might include cardamon and cinnamon. Meals weren’t served in courses. All the items came at once, later giving us the term smorgasbord. Other items on the menu included Greek olives, rye bread, and herring

In the main display hall there’s a replica of housing enjoyed by the workers and their very large families. The small shelter looks like a pleasant cottage, but must have been terribly overcrowded when people had to stay inside during the winter.

A famous find in the museum is the Danish Flagship “Gribshunden” or Griffin Hound, a ship built in 1495. It was discovered underwater after 520 years but with little damage because the Baltic is too cold for the worms that like to eat wood. It is the first ship from this era that has been discovered intact. The discovery that attracted the most attention was the prow figurehead with its monster teeth. It was raised in 2015.

BRÄNDAHOLM

Brändaholm on the Island of Dragsö is a unique pedestrian community across a bridge from Karlskrona. Founded as a community garden in 1923, the island has 45 small houses with gardens that can only be purchased by residents of Karlskrona. The house size is restricted to 32 square meters and all feature gardens. These are generally summer houses, because water is only piped to the island during the summer. The pathway through the island is frequented by the general public. I felt a bit intrusive, peering into the meticulous gardens. When I mentioned my concern to the guide, she shrugged her shoulders and said anyone who has a house in Brändaholm expects the pedestrian traffic. The houses are seldom, if ever, for sale.

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Gribshunden. English Summary

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