Sikkim entered American consciousness in 1963 when Hope Cooke married then Crown Prince Walden Thondup Namgyal. The marriage lasted ten years. I didn’t remember anything about Hope’s reign as Queen Consort until we arrived at the Nor-khill Hotel in Gangtok. Built in 1932 as a royal guest house, the lobby retains an opulent flavor. Pictures of the last royal couple of Sikkim hang throughout the hotel.

      Gangtok at an elevation of 5410 feet is the capital of Sikkim. Visitors fly into Bagdora airport and embark on a four hour drive over twisting roads to get to Gangtok. Our drive was twice as long due to landslides and heavier than usual traffic. At the border town of Rangpo, we stopped to get our permit for Sikkim.

Local guide Chandan

introduced me to the many monasteries near Gangtok. Our first stop was Ganeshtok Shrine, a Hindu temple in the midst of Buddhist Sikkim. We came for the view. Too bad it was a cloudy day.

But it must have also been an auspicious day. A couple made their marriage vows. The bride in red; the groom in western clothing. And everything recorded via a smart phone.

Nearby we went to Hanumantok Shrine, sacred to Lord Hanuman and famous for its view of the Kanchenjunga Peaks.

A few steps away, we visited Do Drul Chorten, a stupa built by Trulshik Rinpoche in 1945. One hundred eight prayer wheels surround the stupa. Legend says villagers invited Trulshik Rinpoche to exorcise the site of evil spirits. He agreed, and told villagers to bring certain items from their homes which he then buried at the bottom of the stupa. The spirits left.

Over bad roads and rushing water we drove up a one-track road until we reached the Seven Sisters Waterfall.

In addition to the falls, there was a food stall and “comfort station.” And then we drove uphill again. We passed large stacks of gravel by the road and people putting the gravel in the roadbed by hand.

At last we reached our destination: Phodong Monastery first built in the 18th century. It’s one of the six most important monasteries in Sikkim. The monastery houses 250 monks of the Kagyu lineage. On the way back down the mountain we stopped at the Labrang Monastery, once important to the Nyingmapa lineage of Buddhism. The monks built Phodong Monastery and continue its upkeep and services. The king built Labrang, now abandoned though local villagers look after it.

Rumtek Monastery is a large complex with monastic students, the temple, and Karma Shri Nalanda Institute. The Golden Stupa, crafted entirely from gold, is a reliquary for His Holiness the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa Rangjung Rigpe Dorje.

Nearer to Gangtok itself is Enchey Monastery, started in the mid-nineteenth century when the founding monk who could, it is said, fly and also perform the magical feats, arrived to make a hermitage. It is said that if you pray for something here, your wish will come true. Ninety monks from the Nyingma sect occupy the monastery.

At Enchey Monastery I found Nirvana, after a fashion, in the guise of Nirvana Cafe.

Tsuklakhang Monastery, located on the grounds of the former Royal Palace, is the last monastery I visited. Also known as the Royal Monastery, this site hosted many official functions. At New Year, which falls between Christmas and Valentine’s Day, there were huge celebrations. The royal family and their guests watched the festivities from the royal pavilion which is also where the king gave audiences.

It’s a quiet place now. No celebrations. Just a few monks chanting. To the side, near the Royal Pavilion, you can just glimpse the edge of former palace. It’s not Buckingham Palace, but for a time, it was Hope Cooke’s home.

Before we leave Gangtok, I want to share a few pictures from the market at the bottom of Lal Bazaar. Fruits, vegetables, and common household items are available here.

After this visit to Sikkim, I will always associate the Himalayas with monasteries. Circumstances prevented me from going beyond Gangtok, but I’m glad there was extra time to explore the local area.

???

Photo of Hope Cooke, 1971, in the Public Domain. Wikimedia Commons.

All other Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

Labrang Monastery.

Phudang Monastery.

Nor-Khill Hotel. 

Cherie Burns. “Being a Queen Didn’t Quite Work Out, But on This Cooke’s Tour Hope Springs Eternal.” People. March 9, 1981.

Michelle Jana Chan. “The Himalayas: Trip of a Lifetime.” The Telegraph. Jan 22, 2016

Francine du Plessix Gray. “The Fairy Tale That Turned Nightmare? Review of Time Change by Hope Cooke.” Books. New York Times. March 8, 1981.

The post SIKKIM – LAND OF MONASTERIES first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

I kept trying to think. Of all the sights I saw when I visited Varanasi, what would be the one most apt to catch the imagination of a nine-year-old girl? Then I remembered the Ganga Aarti – a religious ritual honoring the Goddess Ganga. It’s done at sunset on the shore of the her home, the Ganges River. I sat with other group members in a small boat at the bottom of the steps, looking at the platform where priests perform the ritual.

The lamp wicks are soaked in ghee (clarified butter). Priests wave the lamps clockwise symbolizing how people’s daily activities revolve around the deity. If you want to watch the ceremony, there’s a good video by Kisho Bhattacharjee available on YouTube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLyYyDB_DpU

As is true for most gods, there are various stories about Goddess Ganga’s interactions with the world of men. What might be an appealing story for a young girl? Perhaps the one about Goddess Ganga and her consort King Shantanu. When the king asked for her hand in marriage, Ganga accepted with one condition. He could never contradict her. [Hmmmm. How come you never see that stipulation in marriage ceremonies?]

About that time, a sage named Vasishtha cursed the eight Astavasu brothers, because they’d stolen the divine cow, Nandini. Vasishtha decreed the Astavasus must be born on earth as humans, before they could return to heaven. There was one exception. The brother who instigated the theft would remain on earth longer. Reluctantly, the brothers set out for earth to fulfill the curse. On the way, they encountered the Ganga who agreed to become their mother on earth.   Ganga bore her first son, and immediately drowned him. She did the same with the second. Shantanu could not make her stop, because he’d promised not to contradict her. He had to choose between Ganga and his children. Finally, as Ganga was poised to drown her eighth child, Shantanu intervened. Ganga was furious and disappeared with the surviving infant.

  Several years later, Ganga emerged from the river and gave her son to Shantanu. “This child,” she predicted, “will be a great hero.” He grew up to be Bhishma, a major player in the Mahabharata, a story for another post.

For more information:

Featured Image: Courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/u-suke/ Originally posted to Flickr by Kawanet Creative Commons Attribution, Wikimedia Commons.

For more information on my fictional biography of Pandita Ramabai, go to https://sandrawagnerwright.com/projects/based-on-a-true-story/

Madhuri Guin. “Ganga: River and Goddess.” http://www.dollsofindia.com/library/ganga/

Bulbul Sharma. Book of Devi. Penguin. 2009

The post GODDESS GANGA first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

I took over 400 digital photographs on my recent trip to India. The good news is that I am not going to post all of them here, but I will offer a few samples. And I’ll let you know when I have more photos posted on Pinterest.

To begin, I offer shopping venues (at least it’s a change from my traffic reports):

This is one of the many roadside vendors displaying his selection of men’s trousers and shirts.

All sorts of things are available at roadside stalls — foodstuffs, shoes, clothing of all types, toys, tires, scrap metal — various branches of the English Wine Shop located all over Agra.

In contrast, this modern store specializes in kitchen utensils.

I purchased a microwave dish for cooking idlis, a dish using rice flour and often eaten for breakfast. The store was jam-packed with anything and everything one might need for preparing or consuming food. It was unusually well lit. One interesting fact about Indian stores (with certain exceptions) is that all items are paid for at one central cashier near the entrance. One can shop throughout the store; assured that purchased items will magically appear at the cashier’s desk as you leave. If you purchase a substantial number of items, they can be delivered to your door.

In contrast to the more customary Indian store, there is a recent shopping experience available at a store called Easyday. I could not help but notice it’s resemblance to Wal-Mart. Indeed, Wal-Mart Stores, Inc. provides technical and management support for the retail chain run by Bharti Enterprises. There are over 200 Easyday stores throughout India.

Can’t beat those “Everyday Low Prices” — no, wait, in India, you can.

And while we’re on the subject of global marketing, I must mention those global Golden Arches.

Ronald MacDonald cheerfully encourages Easyday shoppers to pick up a Happy Meal on the way home. Or better yet,try a Masala Grill sandwich in either vegetarian or non-vegetarian (chicken) versions.

Purely in the interest of research, I tried the chicken. Although I’ve never actually eaten cardboard, the comparison did come to my mind.

But, India is more than shopping.

It is the Taj Mahal.

I was on the opposite side of the Yamuna River, facing the back of the Taj Mahal when I took this picture.

There are religious festivals

I took this picture on the final day of Ganeshchaturthi, a festival honoring Lord Ganesha. On the last day his image is immersed in a body of water to symbolize his rebirth. These worshippers were going to the Yamuna River. In olden times, the images were made of mud, but now they are fashioned from papier-mache and other substances that do not bio degrade as well.

 There are ox drawn carts—

Mothers shading their children –

And, of course, monkeys.

Have you been the victim of a parental slide show? Or, have you shared your own digital photo collection with friends?

Leave a comment.

All Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

The post PHOTOGRAPHIC MEMORIES first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

We were two vehicles going to Delhi. The first carrying our hosts and friends; the second a taxi conveying the Handsome Bloke and I. Precise instructions were given to our driver, but the reality that he did not speak English brought home to me the necessity of learning some Hindi before our next visit. At this point, I find it both rude and impractical that I cannot voice more than five words – which include “water,” “rice,” “yes,” and “no.” Good words to know, but not very useful in conversation. I’ll keep you posted on how the language lessons go — my brain is already worried about overcrowding.

So, off we went into Agra traffic, stopped for “petrol” and meandered until we reached an amazing structure called the Yamuna Expressway – named after the Yamuna River, it is a toll road that connects Agra and the outermost areas of Delhi. It is a new highway with no traffic and no pot holes. Yes, that is correct. For kilometers, the only car was our host’s in front of us, and the occasional motor scooter carrying an entire family of four…or six. Until we came upon a rest area or toll plaza at which point there were more vehicles than one might expect. But they were either faster or slower, because soon the road was ours again.

Then we reached the “end of the road” where the expressway merged with the Delhi highway system. Traffic was back with a vengeance — but more along the lines of a traffic jam on the Los Angeles freeway system. Changing lanes on an American freeway can be a harrowing experience. On the Delhi highway, it seemed impossible, but our driver did it with nonchalance and a loud horn. Slowly we picked our way across town to reach the older “New Delhi” area with India Gate, the military cantonment, diplomatic district, and our destination: The Taj Palace Hotel.

Guarded gates open onto an opulent structure of marble and space. Staffers glide in their saris and suits, and tasteful flower displays accompanied by aromatic scents greet the visitor. Carpets are deep; appointments are immaculate, and traffic horns are replaced by a classical music. I recall Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy” playing as we checked in. A living myth belying the irreverent cacophony just outside the gates. After spending the night in opulent luxury, we left early Sunday morning and boarded our British Airways flight to London.

As we wend our way through the air, I bemusedly try to make some sense of things. Say India to ten people in the west, and they are likely to mention the Taj Mahal, if they have any image at all. The Taj Mahal is a beautiful monument, but it is static. It’s been there for centuries – sometimes visible, other times buried. However, India is not static. She is straining to mix traditional and modernity, Jaguars and ox carts. She is vibrant and bustling, yet without a western sense of time. She is a global society struggling for her place, while still trying to provide adequate sanitation in remote villages. Luxury condominiums stand near tent cities. These contradictions cannot be understood – they simply exist.

I wonder if we in the west don’t have our own contradictions. Desperate inner cities surrounded by prosperous suburbs. Children living below the poverty level while surrounded by plenty. Something to consider.

What do you think? Leave a comment, if you are so inclined. After I return home and can download my pictures, I’ll post a board on Pinterest. Hope you are enjoying the seasonal change that is October.

The post FLIGHT TO ANOTHER WORLD first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

The road leads to the shore of the Yamuna River.

The Yamuna River winds past the Taj Mahal. It would be a short distance and lovely idyll by boat, instead of traffic snarls all the way. When I first arrived in Agra, it was Ganeshchaturthi – a festival held for Lord Ganesha. At the end of the festival, worshipers make images of Ganesha which are taken for immersion in the closest body of water. In this case, the Yamuna river. Environmentalists have become concerned. At one time, the images were made of mud, which returned to that state after immersion. Now believers use various materials, including papier-mâché, which add to the general pollution of the water.

I don’t think the environmental supporters will have much success in this campaign. Each group of worshippers wants to honor Ganesha with a glorious image, which is taken through town on its way to the river. There is music, dancing, a colorful “face paint.” The immersion marks Ganesha’s rebirth.

The road ends by the crematorium presided over by Shiva – the god of transformation. He is depicted as a benevolent figure. The Goddess Ganga pears out from the topknot in Shiva’s hair.

It’s curious to see modern and traditional life close together. Herders urge their cattle out of the river. Above them, electric grids stride across the water.

Work done, men relax for conversation.

Women share news of the day

Goats go on their merry way.

Some goats might be considered merrier than others. When I took this picture, I thought it was another shot of the herd. Only later did I realize what was really going on. That’s the thing about India. It’s impossible to truly see what is in front of your eyes. Only later does a visitor have a fuller understanding.

The post ROAD TO YAMUNA RIVER first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

I am endlessly fascinated by the traffic — an experience of obscurely controlled chaos, the pattern of which can be discerned but not observed. Our host has a small car easily maneuverable in city traffic. It’s a Honda, bright and shiny red when we leave the house; dimmed by dust when return. I think looking out the car windows is possibly the best way to people watch — the entire world passes by. Scooters, bicycles, buses, trucks, piles of people everywhere doing everything.

Shops open by the road. It is a regular sensory explosion. Plus the heat, which even though the car has air conditioning, is pretty intense. Then there are the traffic cops who don’t appear to do anything, the traffic lights that everyone ignores, the crosswalks that people don’t use because they randomly cross wherever, the piles of rubbish, the people and animals who pick through the rubbish. And no sense of personal or vehicular space.

Our first piece of business is to cash some travelers checks (American Express, of course). We have done this basic transaction on previous visits — but we had also been staying at hotels. So, off we go to our host’s business bank. Even though he has an account, we could not cash our travel checks. We went to two more banks – same story. Finally we learn that there has to be a special license to cash travel checks, but the last bank suggests Cox & Kings, so off we go to find the office Yes, they will cash our checks. The process must have taken half an hour on top of the hour we spent going to banks. But OK, we have it.

Next, the Handsome Bloke and I want to purchase a few bottles of Sula Sauvignon Blanc. Many Indians don’t drink, but many do. And Sula is an Indian wine with vineyards and processing in southern India. So, we did not think it would be a difficult to find it. Also, there are numerous liquor stores all over Agra – most often called “English Wine Shop.” Well, yes, but of course not the variety of wine we were seeking. We eventually found what we wanted in the tourist section of town near the Taj Mahal, and had the opportunity to see lots of sights along the way. The unexpected joy of travel.

From there, we went to a store called “Easy Day” to buy soy milk. It is part of Walmart’s global presents in everything but name. Who would expect to go half way around the world to shop at Walmart. There is just no escaping those “roll back prices.”

Just one more task for the day — activate our SIM cards for our mobile phones. From the time of purchase, it takes up to 3 days for the cards to be active, because they must first go through an extensive security check as part of the war against terrorism. Inconvenient but necessary.

Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

The post GETTING SETTLED IN AGRA first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Today’s blog features a few interesting sights on the road from Delhi to Agra. For example, the above picture of a buffalo keeping very good pace with the car. This is a good indication of how slowly the traffic can move.  Which gives me time to see and take pictures.

I can’t imagine anyone working as hard as this chap does to earn a living. He is pushing a substantial cargo on his bike. I suppose on the upside, once he delivers it he will have a ride home.

There are other ways to move goods. Carts, Camels, and very colorful Trucks, many with requests for the driver behind them to honk his horn.

Until next time, I’ll keep widening my perspectives.

Photos by Author. All rights reserved.

The post AH, INDIA first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

The Ellora Caves are more accessible than the Ajanta Caves.  The terrain is flatter; the topography less uneven.  Many feature courtyards at their entrances.

Hindu Caves

The most spectacular cave complex at Ellora is Cave 16, called the Kailasa Temple.  The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and designed to resemble Lord Shiva’s residence at Mount Kailasa.  Devotees carved the temple out of 85,000 cubic meters of solid rock, beginning at the top of the structure and working their way down.  Construction began in the mid-eighth century CE.  If you look closely at the picture above, you can see remnants of the original paint.

The complex is massive.  Free standing pillars and sculptures, primarily of elephants, were added after the main structure was complete.

This elephant is in remarkably good shape considering the statue is exposed to the elements and over 1500 years old.

Once again, I offer visual proof I was on-site.  More interestingly, look behind me.  The picture gives a good indication of the complex’s scale.  So much stone and sculpture.

Lord Shiva is one of the most approachable gods, because he held himself outside structured society.  The bas-relief below is at the entrance to the temple and depicts Shiva killing a demon.

Kailasa Temple felt harsh with its unrelenting hard surfaces.  And then I spied a creature that softened the experience.

Kailasa Temple is the last place I expected to see a squirrel.  Yet, there it was, so tiny and quick, as it scurried across the open spaces and popped into a crevice between the stone blocks.  This is the Khaki Char squirrel (Funambulism palmarum), also known as the Three Striped Palm Squirrel.  Lord Shiva’s temple is a good choice for them, because they are considered sacred due to their association with Lord Rama.  According to the story, Lord Rama petted the squirrel and the lighter strips are from Lord Rama’s fingers.

There are also numerous bas reliefs on the exterior walls of Kailasa Temple.  Here is one of Ganesha the elephant-headed son of Shiva and Parvati.

Jain Caves

There are five Jain caves.  I took this picture in Cave 32.  The figure is identified as Jain tirthankara Mahavira.  He does not raise his hand in the position of teachers, because Jains did not teach directly.  Followers learned through observation.

Buddhist Caves

The twelve Buddhist caves were built between the fifth and seventh centuries CE by Vajirayana monks.  The most interesting Buddhist cave is Cave 10, often called the Carpenter’s Cave, because the ceiling is carved to look like wooden beams.  This picture looks up to the second level aisles.  Buddha is seated in the “teaching pose” with his righthand raised.  Looking on the frieze underneath, one can also see amorous couples enjoying life, indicating Mahayana Buddhism in the fifth century was less austere than in its early days.

It is no wonder that the Ellora Caves are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Spending the day here gave me the opportunity to imagine what once was in a very concrete way.  This experience is the reason people like to travel — to exist in a different space for a few magical moments.

All photos by Author. All rights reserved.

 For more information on the Ellora Caves, check out:

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/243

http://elloracaves.org/about.php

The post ELLORA CAVES – SITE OF RELIGIOUS TOLERANCE first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

This is the view from the lookout point.  If you look straight down you will see the Waghora River bed.  I don’t say river, since, at the time, there was no visible water.  On the other hand, once the monsoons start, it fills up fairly quickly.

You can clearly see the 30 caves Buddhist monks hand-carved out of the cliff face.  I wonder if they were meditating as they excavated – it would seem appropriate.  Originally, the caves were accessed by individual ladders connecting to the riverside between 35 and 110 feet below.

We decided it would be fun to walk down from the look out.  This is how I looked at the start.  I had a hat, sturdy walking boots, and a ridiculous smile as I sat under the leafless tree.  I’m sure I said something like “Sure, let’s walk down.  Gravity is our friend.”

And here I am when we finally got to the first actual cave entrance.  Note the glazed eyes and red face.  And that’s before we actually started looking at the caves.  The walk, by the way, was terrific.

But enough about me.  Let’s talk about the Ajanta Caves – named as a UNESCO Heritage Site in 1983.

There were two phases of construction.  Monks carved the first caves about the second century BCE, during the time Hinayana Buddhism was dominant.  The second phase of excavation happened between the fifth and seventh centuries CE.  By then, Mahayana Buddhism dominated and secular merchants provided both funding and supplies.

About the 8^th century CE, the monks left, and the jungle returned.  The caves slept peacefully until April 28, 1819 when John Smith, a British cavalry officer, bumped into them.  I’ve seen conflicting accounts about what John was doing when he found the caves.  One says he was hunting for tigers.  Another said John was separated from his party after a tiger attacked them.  I suppose both views are valid.

Basically, John was hanging out trying to decide what to do, when he noticed a rock wall covered by a thicket of vegetation.  Of course, he had to check it out.  And he discovered the wall was actually the edge of a horseshoe shaped window.  We know this site as Cave No. 10. John was so impressed; he carved his name and the date on the wall.  Of course, that was the very top of the wall, so the carving is barely visible now.  It is probably safe to say, John did not know the value of his discovery, but he did report it to the Nizam of Hyderabad.

The 30 caves are arranged in a horseshoe pattern that follows the curve of the Waghora River below.

So what do the caves look like?  Now that I have caught my breath, you see me outside Cave No. 19, completed about 600 CE.

This is from the later period of cave construction.  The monks wanted to get away from the world, so they carved individual cells inside. So, how does that look?  Kind of dark, if you discount the artificial lighting.

And the individual cell?  It may not be a bed of nails, but a rock bed indicates a somewhat austere lifestyle.

Ajanta Caves are particularly known for their wall and ceiling paintings.  This painting is a palace scene from a story about Buddha.

The colors remain amazingly vibrant.  More than the elements, I was told the biggest threat to their survival was the use of an alcohol solvent in an effort to clean them.  Oops.

The paintings are a type of tempura.  First the monks evened out the rock surface with a mixture of clay, cow dung and rice husks.  Then, they applied a coat of lime to create the polished surface on which the artist used a fresco technique, applying the paint onto a wet surface.

The image below is from Cave No. 2 called the “Epiphany of Buddha.”  Done in 60 CE, it reflects Mahayana iconography showing various aspects of Buddha.

The earliest monks did not depict images of Buddha, but instead indicated his presence by a stupa, as in Cave 26.  The ceiling arches look like wood, but are actually stone.

Visiting the Ajanta Caves was an incredible privilege.  Walking down the mountain in the heat allowed me to imagine the type of isolation the monks must have experienced – although they were not completely off the trade route pathway.  Experiencing manmade caves of such magnitude – it took generations to create the caves, and even longer to decorate them with sculpture and painting – reminded me that time is, in fact, endless.  The devotion, commitment, and determination of these anonymous monks is a dramatic contrast to our modern lives of technology and instant gratification.

For a day, I glimpsed a timeless realm.

Unless otherwise noted, all photos by Author.  All Rights Reserved.

For more information on the Ajanta Cave, check out:

http://www.kamit.jp/02_unesco/02_ajanta/aja_eng.htm

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/242/

The post PILGRIMAGE TO THE AJANTA CAVES first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Namaste – I’m glad to be with you again. As you may know from my few Facebook postings, I’ve been in India for three and a half weeks. I have lots of stories to tell. I would have told them sooner, but 1.) Internet connection was not always the best, and 2.) I was doing and seeing so much that I could not share my adventures in complete sentences. For the next few posts, I’ll share stories and hope you find them as amusing as I do.  Some stories are funnier after the fact than they were at the time.  Allow me to set the stage.

Pench National Park

Pench National Park (http://www.penchnationalpark.com) is located in Madhya Pradesh, India.  It’s named after the Pench River flowing through its 758 square kilometer ecosystem.

Project Tiger

Project Tiger (http://projecttiger.nic.in) began in 1973 after a 1972 census estimated the Bengal Tiger population had fallen to 1800 individuals.  Pench National Park is one of several Tiger Reserves in India.

And the Monkeys?

May I introduce the Common Langur Monkey (Semnopithecus entellus)?

This monkey is very tall.  Sitting down, he is as tall as my hip.  I met one of his cousins up close and personal.  He was sitting about three feet away from me – in front of the lavatory door.

Let me explain.  We stayed at Baghvan, a Taj Safari Lodge,  (http://www.tajhotels.com/Luxury/Taj-Safaris/Baghvan-Pench-National-Park/Overview.html)  It is a delightful property with a wonderful staff and delicious food.  It also has a few quirks.  Baghvan is adjacent to Pench National Park, and animals are notoriously bad about noticing boundary lines.

Guests have individual bungalows.  This is the exterior of our second bungalow.

Notice the outer door.  From the inside, it looks like this.

The door on the left is the entry door.  It opens to the exterior porch.  Notice the door on the right.  There is a handle and under the handle is a sliding bolt.  Every door has a bolt on both the inside and the outside.  Can you guess why there are bolts?  If you open the door on the right, you find yourself in a connecting area of about four feet.  Outside, on your right you will see a romantic outside shower.

I never used the outside shower.  You will soon know why.

On the left of the photo is the edge of the combination lavatory, shower, and dressing area.  To the right is the entrance back into the air-conditioned sleeping area.  Remember the sliding locks?  When you leave an area, you lock the door.  When you enter an area, you lock the door.  Hmmmm.  Why do you suppose that is?

That first hot afternoon, the Handsome Bloke and I napped under the AC unit.  Eventually, I needed to access the lavatory.  I opened the door.  Guess who was sitting in front of the exterior lavatory door?

Absolutely the biggest, closest monkey I’ve ever seen.  I didn’t mind his height so much as his proximity.  My jaw dropped.  I closed the door.  I decided that I would never go to the bathroom so long as we stayed at Baghvan – in fact, I was not sure I would ever leave the sleeping area.  I began to make shrieking sounds.

The Handsome Bloke asked what my problem was.   “Mmmmm—ooonnn—kiiiiiiii,” I stammered in a high-pitched voice.

“Where?”

“Outside”

“Where else would they be?”

“Outside in front of the lavatory.”

“Oh.”

Oh?  All he could say was, “Oh”?

“I’ll chase it away.”

“NO!  Don’t open the door!  Call someone!!”

Handsome Bloke shrugged.  Called reception: “We have a monkey problem.”

“Okay, we’ll send some guys.  Is the door unlocked?”

“Not exactly.”

“Well, you have to unlock the door, or we can’t come in.”

[Duh!]  “Okay.”

Shrieking woman to Handsome Bloke: “What door is locked?”

Handsome Bloke:  “I thought if I locked the outer door beyond the bedroom door, it would keep us safe from the monkeys.”

“Not working out too well.”

“It’s fine.  I’ll just open this door on the right, go to the outer door, slide the bolt, and come back.”

Shrieking woman jumps up and down.  “No no no no no!!!.  Don’t open this door!”

Exasperated Handsome Bloke.  “There’s no other way to get to the outer door.  Find something we can bang on to distract them.”

There is a rule in life.  You never have a gong when you need one.

We did not have a gong to strike fear into monkey nerves.  We had an ice bucket with tongs.

BANG! BANG! BANG!  SHOUT! SHOUT! SHOUT!  RATTLE THE DOOR

Handsome Bloke slithers out, pulls the bolt, scoots back.

Hyperventilating women:  “I can’t,” *gasp,* “believe you did that.”

Handsome Bloke:  “I’m blind.  It’s not like I can see the monkey.”

Staff arrived, shooed the monkeys, and guided hysterical woman to a bungalow close to reception.  “Don’t worry.  Just call and we’ll escort you.”

Gasp, hiccup. “OK”

Handsome Bloke. “I’m going for a smoke.”

Facts about the Common Langur

• They are happy and inquisitive.
• They live in all habitats, including cities and temples.
• They like to eat leaves, flowers, and berries.
• They give the alarm when predators, especially tigers, are in the area.
• Hindus regard Common Langurs as the Monkey God Hanuman.  They are protected.
• http://walkthewilderness.net/animals-of-india-20-the-common-langur-most-reliable-spotter/

By the time we left Baghvan I was rather fond of the Common Langur monkey – and I always looked both ways when walking between the sleeping area and lavatory.

(Unattributed Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.)

The post MONKEY BUSINESS AT PENCH NATIONAL PARK, INDIA, OR, CLOSE ENCOUNTER WITH THE COMMON LANGUR MONKEY first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

First list: Activities. I need business attire, casual clothes for doing research and normal life, dressy items for formal dining. And, of course, work out gear.

Second list: Weather. Summer is easier than Fall, Winter, or Spring. Except when it isn’t. I once was in York, England for June and July. I anticipated some inclement weather – the occasional light rain. Wrong. I wore layers every day. First, the tank top, followed by the shell, the shirt, the pull over sweater, the raincoat, and gloves. And then there was the formal dinner. I am not kidding. Good thing there was time to shop.

Let’s leave the clothes for now. What next?
Third list: Electronics. There was a time when I occasionally packed a hair dryer. Paper sufficed for everything else. Of course, that was when my cabin baggage consisted entirely of printed notes from a yearlong research trip. Now, I have a jump drive . . . somewhere. PLUS . . . on my last trip: MacBook Air, iPad, iPhone, portable hard drive, digital camera, cords and other paraphernalia. [Sidebar: I think paraphernalia is a very cool word. It means ‘stuff’ but it sounds so exotic. Can I use it in a sentence? Hmmm . . . “Let me gather my photographic paraphernalia before we get into the Jeep.”]

OK, that’s sorted. Let’s move on to “personal items/toiletries. If you have the fantasy of traveling with just a carry-on bag, everything better be in 3-ounce containers that can fit into a 1-quart plastic bag.

Back to clothing. Yes, I know. Layers. Coordinated colors – which usually translates into black, grey, white, brown, navy and beige + scarves and/or cheap clunky jewelry. Professional “packers” recommend thin fabrics. They pack smaller than wool, linen, or cotton, and you won’t have to iron them later. [Iron? Moi?] Don’t fold your clothes, roll them, and save space by stuffing your shoes.

At this point, hysteria creeps up. How many days am I gone? Would anyone notice if I wore the Tre Elegant Knit Tank Travel Dress from TravelSmithcom (http://www.travelsmith.com/tres-elegant-knit-tank-travel-dress/women/dresses/21559?defattrib=&defattribvalue=&listIndex=10 ) to the formal dinner with six forks? Would their eyes be dazzled if I paired it with my imitation Hermes scarf, or would they fixate on my all-occasion slightly scuffed gold flats? Never mind, I’ll put in the light blue sparkly cocktail dress and kitten heels.

There are lots of websites with packing tips. Two of them, complete with suggested packing lists, are “How to Pack Light” by Josie at Travelista.com http://travelista.com/packing/how-to-pack-light/ and “How to Pack Light” by Dana Sullivan Kilroy at Away.com http://away.com/travel-advice/travel-ta-how-to-pack-light-sidwcmdev_155212.html

Single most important things to pack: a genuine smile and a sense of humor – the rest does not really matter . . . much.

The post How I Attempt to Pack Light first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.