KODIAK

After leaving Homer on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula, we cruised across Shelikof Strait to Kodiak Island (Kodak city population 6,130). Kodiak is the second largest island in the U.S. (The Big Island of Hawai`i is the largest.) and is particularly known for the Kodiak Bear, also known as the Kodiak Brown Bear and/or the Alaska Grizzly Bear. The Kodiak Bear is a sub-species of the Brown Bear, and one of the two largest varieties of bear (the other being the polar bear). A male Kodiak bear weighs between 800 and 1400 pounds. That’s a lot of bear!

My Kodiak adventure was at sea aboard the U Rascal, one of the sport fishing boats operated by family owned Kodiak Island Charters. Not many cruise ships go to Kodiak, so there isn’t much in the way of “tourist” boats. The U Rascal is closer to the water line, well equipped with fishing equipment and surprisingly clean. Complete with a marine toilet.

From the pier at Kodiak, our destination was Long Island with the hope of seeing marine wildlife. We saw the first animals before we left the harbor area – a large mass of Steller Sea Lions. Adult males reach a body weight of 1,245 pounds with a length of almost 11 feet. The story is that at one time the sea lions swam into the boat harbor, causing some disruption to normal traffic, So the harbormaster arranged for left over materials to be used to create a “haul-out” for them.

As we headed into open water, we saw lots of marine wildlife, including a natural sea lion haul-out, smaller harbor seals, and sea otters. Long Island is famous for its bird rookery featuring both tufted and horned puffins.

So far, so good. But then the amazing, magical moment arrived. The U Rascal headed out to an area where whales had been spotted the day before. And then, there they were, not just in the distance but swimming near and around the boat – at least 20. They were surface swimming and though they “blew” and the humpbacks waved the occasional fin, there was no breaching or diving. But it didn’t matter to me. It was such a thrill to be in a small boat so close to them.

These whales follow a migratory pattern in which they feed in the waters off Alaska during the summer months, and then spend their winters in waters off Hawai`i where they mate and give birth. I’ve never participated in whale watching in Hawai`i, possibly due to what I call “home town inertia.” But having such a special experience in Alaska makes me glad I waited. The cooler weather, calm water (at least that day), uncluttered water area, and presence of other sea animals made the experience a once-in-a-lifetime event. Sorry to say, I don’t have any pictures. I had to make a choice: fool around with the camera and perhaps have nothing to show for it, or be present for as long as the moment lasted. I think I made the right choice. Some things are meant to live in our hearts, not our photo collections.

HUBBARD GLACIER

After so much excitement, I was glad we spent the next day cruising across the Gulf of Alaska to Hubbard Glacier, America’s largest tidewater glacier. It’s 76 miles long, 7 miles wide and 600 feet tall. Two hundred fifty feet of that height is below the water line. For the last 100 years, Hubbard Glacier has been advancing at a rate of about 80 feet per year. One more interesting factoid: the ice at its face is about 450 years old and in some spots over 2000 feet thick.

The approach is eerie in its silence, except for ice cracking, the peaceful look of the water, and the sensation of timelessness. Another opportunity to realize the vastness of nature in comparison to human existence.

SITKA

Sitka on Baranof Island (population 8,881) was first settled by the Kiksadi Clan of the Tlingit people. In 1799 the Russian territorial governor, Alexander Baranof, moved the hunt for sea otters from Kodiak to Sitka. Within sixty years, the sea otters were almost extinct.

One of the unique aspects about life in Sitka is that the island can only be accessed by boat or airplane. There’s no highway link with the mainland. There are fourteen miles of road on the island with cars brought in via the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry system. People use the same ferries to travel to Juneau or Ketchikan.

For my last excursion, I elected to see as many animals as possible on land and sea. I booked a five hour tour called “Otters, Raptors, and Bears – Oh My!” I mean, how could you resist an excursion with a name like that? The cruise, organized by Allen Marine Tours, used a very nice catamaran. I got to see marine mammals that had become familiar over the previous week: a raft of sea otters, bald eagles, harbor seals, various sea birds, and more whales. But the best was yet to come.

The land tour began with a visit to the Alaska Raptor Center, 17 acres dedicated to the rehabilitation of up to 200 injured raptors each year. One especially fascinating part of the rehabilitation process is the Bald Eagle Flight Training Center. The center provides flight conditioning space for bald eagles – viewing windows allow visitors to see the birds soar, swoop, and preen.

Some birds, for various reasons, can’t be released back into the wild. They take on a different role as “Raptors-in-Residence.” Sitka is a residential bird, and I sat about five feet away from her.

It was what we in Hawai`i call a “chicken skin” experience. Trivia factoid: As we know, Bald Eagles aren’t actually bald. They have white feathers on their heads and necks. At the time they received their name, the word bald meant light hair as well as no hair.

There was one more unique activity left on my Sitka itinerary – a visit to Fortress of the Bear, a safe haven for orphan bear cubs

I immediately noticed Feeding Instructions from the Bear Keepers:

“Bears should only eat fish, berries, roots and grasses. Please do not place children on the railings. Thank you.”

A simple sign with more than one interpretation.

There are three confined areas for the bears. The first space features three brown bears: Toby, Balloo, and Lucky.

The second family unit is Killinoo and Chaik.

And there are three black bear cubs: Smokey, Bandit, and Tuliaan.

Alaska law doesn’t allow the release of bears back into the wild, so it’s hard to say if the facility will be able to rescue more bear cubs. But these eight bears are doing just fine.

Thank you for sharing these memories with me.

I hope you’re inspired to take your own trip to Alaska.

Photos by Author – All Rights Reserved

For More Information:

Population figures from 2010 Census.

If you missed the first two Alaska blogs, you can still access ‘Tales from Alaska” and “An Alaskan Journey”.  See you next week!

Kodiak
Discover Kodiak Island Website – http://www.kodiak.org
Kodiak Island Charters — http://www.kodiakislandcharters.com

Hubbard Glacier
Hubbard Glacier – National Park Service – http://www.nps.gov/wrst/naturescience/upload/HG%20Fact%201.pdf

Sitka
Visit Sitka Website – http://www.sitka.org
Allen Marine Tours – http://www.allenmarinetours.com
Alaska Raptor Center — http://www.alaskaraptor.org
Fortress of the Bear — http://www.fortressofthebear.org

The post WHALES, RAPTORS, & BEARS first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Before continuing our Alaskan Cruise itinerary, I need to clarify which city is the second rainiest city in the U.S. Last week I wrote that Ketchikan, Alaska is the rainiest city in the United States, and Hilo, Hawai`i is the third rainiest city. Which led to an obvious question – What’s the second rainiest city? You might think this could be answered with a quick Google search. Not really. The majority of climate sites only cover the 48 contiguous states, making Mobile, Alabama the number one city for rain, with 67 inches.

So, I delved deeper. Ketchikan (population 8,250) kept it’s number one spot with slightly over 152 inches of rain per year. Hilo is second or third. If one considers Yakutat, Alaska (population 668) large enough to qualify as a city, it ranks second, and Hilo (population 43,263) third. If not, then Hilo is second, and Quillayute (population 104), on the Washington Olympic Peninsula is third. The only thing I know for sure is any city near a rain forest is extremely damp.

Alaska calls.

ANCHORAGE/WHITTIER

From Juneau, the m/s Amsterdam sailed north to Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city (population 300,000). Most cruise ships don’t stop in Anchorage, because it takes a long time to negotiate the inlet to the harbor. Usually, they stop at a small town called Whittier, 65 miles away, and those people who want to visit Anchorage take the bus.

I took an excursion from Anchorage to Prince William Sound in Whittier. Trust me to do things backwards. About 200,000 cruise passengers pass through Whittier each year – not bad for a town with a permanent population of 180. It’s a strange place. Whittier had enormous strategic importance during World War II, because of the Alaska Railroad. When the army left, it bequeathed its barracks to the town. The residents all live in a 14-story concrete building. Children don’t even leave it for school, using a tunnel to get to class.

Another anomaly is the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel through Maynard Mountain, built during World War II to transport men and equipment into the town. Today the  2.5 mile tunnel is a single lane highway. Traffic goes one direction on the hour and the other on the half hour. And sometimes the train goes through.

At Whittier I boarded the Klondike Express for the 26 Glacier Cruise. Not being a specialist, I think one glacier greatly resembles another, so I won’t count them out. I mainly enjoyed the wild life. My first sea otters, lounging on a chunk of ice. Did you know one inch of a sea otter’s pelt has as much fur as an entire German shepherd? Or that they are related to weasels – much bigger though.

Saw my first eagles and black legged kittiwake. And lots of glaciers – so many that early explorers had trouble coming up with names. But they had a cunning plan. They named one fjord College Fjord. The glaciers to the north were named after women’s colleges, those on the south after men’s schools. The glaciers on Harriman’s Fjord were named for prominent Americans. Which reminds me, Whittier was named for America poet John Greenleaf Whittier. This kind of situations reminds me why a liberal arts education is so important – science to recognize new discoveries and arts to name them.

HOMER & SELDOVIA

Homer, located at Kachemak Bay on the Kenai Peninsula, calls itself the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World”. On a different note, the residents identify their home as a “Quaint little drinking village with a fishing problem.” Tom Bodett called it the “End of the Road.” Enticing, yes?

As I walked down the wharf to my excursion boat, the Rascal-U, I passed a boat that’s a star in it’s own right. The Time Bandit, a commercial crab fishing boat featured in Discovery Channel’s Deadliest Catch. Calling themselves the Bad Boys of the Bering Sea, captains Johnathan and Andy Hillstrand steer the 113-foot boat designed by their father. Interior comforts include a 4-man sauna.

Cruising to Gull Island on a postcard perfect day, I saw lots and lots and lots of sea otters. Some were mothers with almost brand new babies on their chests. Because of the density of their fur, otters spend much of the day grooming. If they don’t, the fur won’t keep out the water. Otters lack the extra layer of fat that other sea animals, like seals, have. So if their fur isn’t maintained properly the wet and cold get in. Not good when you spend most of the day lying on your back in the water. Mama otters get to groom themselves and their cubs. Looking at their bobbing faces, I could see what started the myth about mermaids.

Gull Island is a rookery where all kinds of sea birds build their nests – including puffins and kittiwakes. It’s a cacophony of raucous birdcalls – especially when an eagle comes near.

Seldovia, “Community of Secluded Calm,”

 Seldovia (population 255) is a small town with a large marina.

There’s a main street fronting the shore and an historic board walk which meanders through a neighborhood back to the main shore road.

At the other side of town there’s a Russian Orthodox Church. Not much else to do, so I thought I’d check it out. Um, no sign. No roadway. Climb a hill to find a blue and white structure similar to the one in Juneau. Clapboards are a bit worse for wear, but perhaps they just hadn’t repainted it yet.

 The doors were closed, and the windows clean. Someone thoughtfully put rocks and boards under the windows so visitors can peek in at the altar furnishings.

Is the church active or derelict? Hard to tell, but someone loves it enough to keep it maintained.

Next week – our final cruise installment, featuring whales, raptors, and bears.

Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

For more information:

Anchorage/Whittier
Cruise Critic. http://www.cruisecritic.com/ports/newport.cfm?ID=141

26 Glacier Cruise. http://www.phillipscruises.com

Homer/Seldovia
Homer Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Center http://homeralaska.org

Time Bandit http://www.timebandit.tv

Seldovia: Alaska’s Best Kept Secret http://www.seldovia.com

The post AN ALASKAN JOURNEY – Part 2 first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

THE ms AMSTERDAM

Holland America’s mid-size ms Amsterdam is flagged out of the Netherlands with company headquarters in Seattle.

Vessel Statistics:
Gross Tonnage – 62,735 tons
Length – 781 feet
Width – 106 feet
Max Speed – 24.5 knots
Passengers – 1218
Crew – 616

The Amsterdam has four restaurants, bars, cocktail lounges, a coffee bar, a casino, a library, pool, spa, gym, walking deck on level 3, movies, live entertainment, shops – it’s like an artificial small town. The company has done everything possible to insure that no passenger is bored. And then, there’s scenery and shore excursions – which I think are the best part. So, that’s what I’ll share for the next three weeks, or so.

I was on a 14-day cruise that began and concluded in Seattle

First Port of Call – KETCHIKAN

Ketchikan is a tiny town with a population of about 8,050. The numbers swell in the summer with workers coming north for the tourist and fishing seasons. From May through September, over 400 cruise ships visit with often as many as six in port at one time.

The city is located in Tongass National Forest, a rain forest that draws over 162 inches of rain annually. This makes Ketchikan the rainiest city in the US. [Sidebar: Hilo HI, where I live, is also a rain forest area. We get about 126 inches annually which makes Hilo the third rainiest city in the US. For once, I’m happy to remain in third place.]

So, what’s there to see in Ketchikan? If you like sports fishing, you should know that Ketchikan, according to the publicity, is the “Salmon Capital of the World.”

I opted to go out of town for a “Wilderness Exploration & Crab Feed” at George Inlet Lodge. At the lodge we boarded a 36 foot enclosed catamaran and mostly sat in our seats like good boys and girls. It was my first excursion, and it was fun.

A tag line for the tour was that participants would help haul in crab pots. Um, no. Only one passenger was brave enough to pull up the pot containing a dead halibut for bait and three crabs. These, by the way, were demonstration crabs, not lunch.

The crabs allowed the guide to demonstrate the difference between boy and girl crabs, and how a pregnant crab looks. If you hold the crab on it’s back, they zone out. Good to know. Also, if you hold the crab just under it’s pincers, all the legs drop open. This proved to be a popular photo op. I was more interested in the distant black bear that looked like a moving boulder, the eagles’ nest, and my first eagle sighting.

After cruising the estuary, we went back to the lodge for all you can eat crab, pitchers of butter, a tasty salad, and blueberry cheesecake. Fat and happy, we got back to the ship in time for drinks.

TRACY ARM & SAWYER’S GLACIER

Tracy Arm is a fjord 45 miles south of Juneau. So my first fun fact is that fjords exist outside of Scandinavia and New Zealand. Technically, a fjord is any narrow, deep inlet between high cliffs, usually connected with glaciers. [This cruise is educational as well as scenic.]

Tracy Arm is part of the Tracy Army-Fords Terror Wilderness as designated by Congress in 1980. It’s managed by the Forest Service and covers 653,179 acres. There are two arms – Tracy and Endicott. Both are over 30 miles long. You may be wondering (c’mon, you must be) why the name includes “Fords Terror.” Apparently a naval crewman named – you guessed it – Ford once paddled into a narrow waterway connected to Endicott Arm and was trapped for six hours in a tidal surge. Yikes!

Twin glaciers are at the end of Tracy Arm – North Sawyer and South Sawyer, respectively.

Details aside, the only word to describe cruising up Tracy Army is AWESOME. It’s the most amazing sight I’ve ever seen. Like being alone in a frozen world – just me and 1833 passengers and crew.

 JUNEAU

Juneau is our last stop today. Alaska became an incorporated territory of the U.S. in 1912. As part of that process, the territorial capital moved from Sitka to Juneau. Not surprisingly, in 1959, Juneau became the state capital. Fun Fact: Juneau is geographically the second largest city in the US, with a population of 32,832.

Originally, Juneau was a mining town. In 1880 Joe Juneau and Richard Harris, following directions from Chief Kaawa.ée, found gold nuggets, and a town was born. Today the economy is based on tourism, mining, and fishing. In 2005 cruise ships brought in about 1 million tourists who visited for 8 hours between the months of May and September. Not all at the same time, of course.

I decided to walk around the town. The first four blocks were flat, and then it was uphill. Did I really want to see St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church? Of course. I’m an historian. It’s a historic building. The oldest continuously operating Orthodox church in southeast Alaska. I made it up the hill. [Puff. Puff. – Must be thinner air up north.] Closed. Undergoing restoration. Shucks.

On the other hand, if I hadn’t hiked up the hill, I would’ve missed the charming houses and gardens.

Back in the tourist area, I noted an intriguing tattoo shop. The sign read: “High Tide Tattoo. Seven Days a Week. Hours 12-7 (sometimes earlier, sometimes later).” And by the way, if you’re thinking of becoming a client, remember: “No Phones, No Cameras, No Children, and No Drunks.”

And, no, I didn’t get a tattoo.

Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

For More Information:

Population Figures from 2010 Census
Holland America – https://www.hollandamerica.com
Ketchikan
Visit Ketchikan – http://www.visit-ketchikan.com
Wilderness Exploration & Crab Feed – https://www.catchcrabs.com/WildernessCrabFeed.htm
Tracy Arm
Wilderness.net – http://www.wilderness.net/NWPS/wildView?WID=605
Juneau
TravelJuneau.com – http://www.traveljuneau.com

The post TALES FROM ALASKA first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.