If you want to see the elusive tiger, Ranthambore National Park and Tiger Reserve is a good place to look. 

Deer are the primary source of food for tigers, and at Ranthambore there are plenty of deer to choose from. The spotted Axis deer are called cheetah in Hindi because cheetah means spots. Sambar deer are the largest deer in Asia. According to our guide, if a tiger brings down one of these, he can eat for a week.

Ranthambore Park covers 250 square miles and supports a tiger population of perhaps 80 animals. Almost every park visitor is able to spot a tiger, sometimes on the road. No such luck for us. The tigers we saw lounged at a distance that visible to the naked eye, but required a telephoto lens for good photos. A female and two juvenile cubs lounged in the grass, entirely uninterested in people standing in vehicles called gypsys, excitedly whispering and pointing. Click-Click-Click went the cameras.

Equally exciting: spotting a leopard under a rock overhang. Well, it was exciting for the people who got their binoculars in a perfect position. Kudos to Juliet Lemon’s visual proof that there really was a leopard.

Ranthambore National Park is the largest park in Northern India, a dry deciduous forest area in the Sawai Madhopur district of southeast Rajasthan at the junction of the Aravalli and Vindhya hill ranges. Tenth century Ranthambore Fort, first built as a hunting lodge, looms 700 meters above the forest. In 1754 Mughal Emperor Shah Alam gave the fort to Sawai Madho Singh I of Jaipur to become a hunting forest for maharajas. The area became a wildlife sanctuary in 1957 and a national park in 1981. 

Entering the park, my first sights included peacocks above the gate and a 300 year old banyan tree spreading its roots across the road. Grey Langot Monkeys, also called Hanuman Monkeys, are everywhere.

Rajbagh Lake lies in a central position, providing water for animals large and small.

Birds, fascinating and colorful, are everywhere.

Oberoi Vanyavilas

Hotels large and small abound at the edge of the park. One of these is Oberoi Vanyavilas is a 20-acre tented camp. Like all the Oberoi hotels, Vanyavilas are a world apart. Accommodations are triple canopied, air conditioned, luxury tents, that aren’t like any tent I’ve ever been in.

Lakshmi, the hotel’s resident elephant, is its most memorable ambassador. Lakshmi came to the hotel as a youngster. She often greets guests as they return from the park while her handlers feed her vegetables and sugar cane. Of course, everyone wanted to take pictures with her. 

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Ranthambore National Park

Oberoi Vanyavilas

Jim Dobson. “Tracking Wild Tigers in Ranthambore National Park.” Forbes. Nov. 15, 2018.

Travel Arrangements by Abercrombie & Kent.

Juliet Lemon Photography

The post DO YOU WANT TO SEE A TIGER? COME TO RANTHAMBORE first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Two Coins focuses on the libel case Mary Pigot filed against The Reverend William Hastie. Though I searched everywhere I could think of, I found no likeness of Miss Pigot. A contemporary newspaper description of the plaintiff and defendant at the 1883 trial gives some idea of Miss Pigot’s appearance.

“Miss Pigot is a lady-like looking Eurasian, not giving one the impression from her looks of anything but strict propriety; indeed, with the profoundest respect to the lady, it seems difficult to conceive of any man conducting himself towards so respectable and rather interesting a person otherwise than with rigid decorum; Miss Pigot’s appearance would certainly not be denominated attractive by a romance writer.”

William Hastie, on the other hand, presented the newspaper reporter with a very different visage. “The defendant, the Rev. W. Hastie, is a hard-featured, canny-looking north countryman, wearing a close dark beard, moustache, [sic] and whiskers. He and the plaintiff impress one as being of about the same (anything but frivolous) age, say, 40 to 42.”

Mrs. Monomohini Wheeler, Inspectress of Girls’ Schools and Zenanas in Bengal, presents an appearance not unlike what I’m sure Miss Pigot adopted. The dress is plain; the hair, severe. Mrs. Wheeler testified on behalf of Reverend Hastie, supporting the defense that Miss Pigot failed in her duties to properly manage the Female

Orphanage. The illustration of a Mrs. Branden, Senior Inspectress of Schools in Madras, gives further insight into the fashion style of women involved in education.

The Reverend Bipro Churn Chuckerbutty was a prominent convert and minister of the Church of Scotland mission in Kolkata. Records indicate that Rev. Chuckerbutty was born in 1823, and may have been the last Hindu boy to light a funeral pyre for his mother. He received Christian baptism in 1843 and went on to a career in the church. Churckerbutty received ordination in 1872 and raised funds to build the Bengali church in 1875. In the aftermath of the case of Pigot v. Hastie, Reverend Chuckerbutty retired in some disgrace.

Missionaries operated in their own structural context, not that of British Civil Servants. These illustrations give some indication of what Miss Pigot’s students may have looked like.

 Lieutenant-Colonel R. Alexander Walker was a member of the Royal Artillery at Dum Dum, near Kolkata. He was a close friend of Rev. Hastie, an enemy of Miss Pigot, and a prominent member of St. Andrew’s Kirk and the Scottish missionary community. His wife, Mrs. Amber Walker, and sister-in-law Miss Georgiana Smail played significant roles in gathering the charges made against Miss Pigot. I don’t have a picture of Lt. Col. Walker, but provide this one to demonstrate the type of culture he upheld. The social gap between a lieutenant-colonel in the Royal Artillery and an unmarried Eurasian professional woman working for the Scottish mission was insurmountable.

Dr. Archibald Scott was, among many other posts, the convener of the Foreign Mission Committee of the Church of Scotland. From his position in Edinburgh he greatly influenced the fate of everyone connected to the case of Pigot v. Hastie.

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The King’s Troop Royal Horse Artillery, 2012. By Sgt Adrian Harlen.

Image of Dr. Archibald Scott from the Internet Archive Book Image. Flickr.

Other images in public domain.

The post Two Coins: A Few Character Profiles first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Sujata Massey’s THE WIDOWS OF MALABAR HILL (2018) opens the author’s new Perveen Mistry mystery series. Set in 1920s Bombay, Massy’s protagonist Perveen Mistry has a lot on her plate. A woman with a scandalous past, she followed her heart into a disastrous marriage that led to formal separation. The daughter of a prominent Parsi lawyer, she completed her legal studies at Oxford, but cannot present cases at court. She works with her father at Mistry Law.

One day she opens a letter pertaining to an estate settlement. Omar Farid has died, leaving behind three widows and four children. All continue to live in seclusion in the family home, their only contact with the outside word via a screened window within the house. The family agent says the widows want to give up their dower inheritance to a family charity.

And so a tale of intrigue and murder begins as Mistry goes to the house to speak to her clients. Do they know what they signed away? Why did they do it? As Mistry pushes into the mystery, she almost forfeits her life.

Massey modeled her lead character on Cornelia Sorabji, the first woman barrister in India. The challenges facing women seeking a profession at the time become clear. Cultural adaptation is also part of the mix, from women living in complete seclusion, to those who withdraw for menstruation, to households that have moved away from these customs. How do women find their way into the modern world? How can they avoid it?

The Widows of Malabar Hill is a very good read, well-researched and well-written.

Perveen Mistry made her first appearance on the written page as one of four stories in INDIA GRAY: HISTORICAL FICTION BOXED SET (2015). As if interviewing a character to see how she will do, Massey opens the book with “Outnumbered at Oxford.” While Perveen studies law, she’s asked to look for an Indian servant, which leads to her first mystery.

I found the second story, “The Ayah’s Tale” to be more engaging. Menakshi Dutt looks after the three Milling children. The children’s complete dependence on their ayah for everything is startling, as is their mother’s seeming indifference. The matter-of-fact cultural racism endured by Menakshi who will be known as Big Ayah is jarring. In the end . . . But that would spoil the story.

India Gray tells the story of a Bengali woman married to an Englishman She works at a military hospital in Assam during World War II. When she discovers some of her patients have ties to the independence movement, where do her loyalties lie?

Bitter Tea concludes the book the struggles still faced by women and girls in areas controlled by religious fundamentalists.

Massey also wrote the award-winning Rei Shimura mystery series set in Japan. I’ll be checking out soon.

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Photograph of Cornelia Sorabji in the Public Domain.

Sujata Massey Web Page.

Claire Kirch. “Sujata Massey’s Sister Widows.” Publishers Weekly. Oct. 13, 2017.

Claire E. White. “A Conversation With Sujata Massey.” The Internet Writing Journal. Oct 1998

The post SUMMER READS: TWO NOVELS BY SUJATA MASSEY first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

If you think that’s too long to wait for Spring, you might want to celebrate HOLI – THE FESTIVAL of COLORS this Friday. Holi is a moveable holiday based on the lunar calendar and is popular far beyond its home in India as a festival of fun.

Like all good festivals, Holi celebrates the victory of good over evil, and love over hate.

Victory over Evil

There was once a demon king called Hiranya Kashipu who became indestructible. [Sidebar: The name Hiranya Kashipu means love of gold and a soft bed.] Hiranya Kashipu soon considered himself a god and ordered everyone to worship him instead of Lord Vishnu. His son Prahlada refused to comply.

Prahlada’s aunt Holika, from whom the name Holi is derived, persuaded Prahlada to sit on a bonfire with her. She failed to mention that her cloak would protect her from the fire, but not him. But Lord Vishnu intervened to protect his devotee. When the fire started, the cloak flew off Holika and landed on Prahlada who was unharmed. The next day people came to the site of the bonfire and applied the ash to their foreheads.

Victory of Love

The use of colored powder comes from a legend about Lord Krishna and Radha. Lord Krishna was concerned Radha wouldn’t accept him because of his dark blue skin, so he arranged to color her face so she would look more like himself. The throwing of colored powder became associated with the love of Krishna and Radha.

Colored Powders

The powder, called gull, was first made from turmeric paste and flower extracts. Today synthetics dyes are used. The four powder colors are red for love and fertility; blue to honor Krishna; yellow, the color of turmeric, and green to symbolize spring and new beginnings.

The night before the festival, revelers light a bonfire to celebrate the victory of good over evil. The next day the fun begins. People smear colored powder over each other’s faces, throw colored water wherever they can, and lose their inhibitions. The last activity is facilitated by the consumption of Bhang, cannabis leaves that are crushed and mixed into drinks and sweets.

Celebrants planning to take to the streets to enjoy the festival are advised to wear old clothes, since the colors often don’t wash out of fabric and to rub hair oil or coconut oil into their skin for the same reason. Crowds become more raucous as the day goes on, so tourists, especially women, are advised to be off the streets by noon.

Holi: A Global Event

Though a Hindu festival, Holi is celebrated throughout the world as a harbinger of spring. In the United States, the Radha Krishna Temple of Spanish Fork, Utah is said to hold the world’s biggest Holi celebration. The 2016 event drew over 35,000 people. Spanish Fork, Utah has had a congregation of Hare Krishna worshipers since 1982. The temple began Holi festivals in 1989. You can get the flavor of last year’s celebration in this short video.

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Illustrations from Wikimedia Commons.

From 2013 Festival of Colors at Sri Radha Krishna Temple by Steven Gerner, Creative Commons Attribution.

Holi Festival with Radha, Krishna and the Gopis. Public Domain.

Shop Selling Colors for Holi by Eliza Raschke. Creative Commons Attribution.

Holi Festival of Colors. 

“What Is the Holiday Festival and Why is it Celebrated by throwing colored powder?” The Telegraph. Mar 13, 2017.

Sharell Cook. “Essential Guide to the 2018 Holi Festival in India.” TripSavvy. Feb. 2, 2018.

Katherine Davis. “Holi Festival a hit not only among Hindus. Washington Post. Mar 17, 2014.

Amani Hughes. “Holi 2018.” Sunday Express. Feb. 22, 2018.

Ankita Rao.” India’s ‘High’ Holiday.” The Atlantic. Mar. 17, 2014.

Herb Scribner. “Does Utah really host the world’s largest Holiday Festival?” Deseret News. Mar. 15, 2017.

The post HOLI – THE FESTIVAL OF COLORS first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Durga Puja, the annual festival in honor of Goddess Durga, begins tomorrow, September 26 and continues until Saturday, September 30. It’s a moveable festival with dates coinciding with the sixth through tenth day of the bright lunar fortnight in the Hindu month of Ashvin. For five days revelers in Kolkata engage in pandal hopping, food, music, and cultural evenings to welcome Durga back to her paternal home.

Durga, consort of Lord Shiva, also manifests Parvati, Kali, Shakti, and Devi in her feminine pantheon. Durga is a warrior goddess. The Durga Puja festival marks her victory over Mahishasura, a shape-shifting demon. More holistically, Durga represents the victory of good over evil. Durga combines the powers of Goddesses Lakshmi (prosperity), Kali (time), and Saraswati (knowledge).

Like other goddesses, Durga has multiple arms;

most often she’s depicted with eight.

In each hand, she holds a weapon of her teachings on overcoming evil.

The chakra in her upper right hand is for dharma, the duties we perform in life. The conch in her upper left hand stands for happiness with which we perform our duties.

The sword in Durga’s second right hand represents the eradication of vices. Her second left hand holds a bow and arrow meaning we must retain our values in the face of difficulties.

The third lower left arm holds a lotus for detachment, while the club in her right hand is for devotion and surrender.

The trident in her fourth left lower arm is for courage to face challenges. The fourth lower right hand is for forgiveness of ourselves and others.

Durga’s vehicle is the lion symbolizing her unlimited power to protect virtue and destroy evils such as anger, arrogance, greed, jealousy, and the desire to harm.

Usually Durga is clothed in a red sari. The color red is for action.

Durga has three eyes. The left eye, symbolized by the moon, is desire. The right eye symbolized by the sun is action. And the middle eye symbolized by fire is for knowledge.

During the festival, temporary pandals (structures to venerate gods) are built. Within, workers construct tableaux of Durga with Lakshmi, goddess of wealth, to her right, and Saraswati (goddess of knowledge) on her left.

The video shows pandals at night – elaborate and glittering. I find the reference to Disneyland entertaining.

At the end of the festival, everything is dismantled, and the images taken to water where they at one time returned to their natural state. In modern times artists have been using non-biodegradable materials and lead-based paints to create more striking figures. Efforts now take place for a return to biodegradable materials.

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Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

Nivedita Ganguly. “Durga Puja, the Bengali Way.” The Hindu. Sept. 23, 2017.
Stay Kalra. “What does Geddes Durga Symbolize?” India Currents. Oct. 18, 2012.
Shri Ryan Rajahs. “The Goddess Durga is the Mother of the Hindu Universe.” ThoughtCo. Sept. 18, 2017.

The post Durga Puja 2017 first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Wednesday, April 5th is Pandita Mary Ramabai’s saint’s day in the Church of England and Episcopal Church. In commemoration and as a special thank you, the Kindle edition of Rama’s Labyrinth is available at no charge until Thursday, April 6.

WHO WAS MARY RAMA?

Mary is Rama’s baptismal name. When Rama traveled to the Community of St. Mary the Virgin at Wantage, England in 1883, she was a widowed single mother determined to serve India’s high caste widows. The Sisters sponsored Rama’s education at Cheltenham Ladies’ College. Both female communities inspired Rama’s decision to found a school for high-caste widows and Mukti, her House of Salvation for widows and orphans from all castes. At Wantage Chapel Rama and her daughter accepted Christian baptism.

WHY DID THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND MAKE RAMA A SAINT?

I checked two Church Calendars. One cited Rama as Translator of Scriptures. Her last major project was to translate the entire Bible into colloquial Marathi. Rama learned Greek and Hebrew so she could translate from original sources. In 1913 Rama completed her translation of the New Testament. The Mukti Printing Press published her entire translated work in 1924, two years after Rama’s death.

The second calendar I consulted described Rama as Prophetic Witness and Evangelist in India. I think she would have preferred that description. As Rama fought adversity, her faith became increasingly evangelistic. The first Pentecostal Revival occurred at Mukti in 1905. Many consider Rama a founding member of the Pentecostal Church.

Rama’s life was one of loss and adversity, but also of triumph and joy. She never gave up. And never turned away those who came to her for help.

There’s more to Rama’s story. Her unusual childhood in which her father named her a Scholar and supervised her education. Her unconventional life as a lecturer. Her brief marriage. Her courage.

If you haven’t read Rama’s Labyrinth, download the Kindle Edition. It’s free through Thursday,                      April 6.

Rama’s Labyrinth is also available in print and audio editions.

More photos of Rama and Mukti on my Pinterest Board.

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Sign up for Sandra’s Newsletter and get “Out-Takes from Rama’s Labyrinth.” The newsletter comes out every Monday with a blog preview & any relevant book announcements. You can unsubscribe at any time. Your contact information won’t be given out. Sign up today for free “Out-Takes from Rama’s Labyrinth.”

Photo of Pandita Ramabai in Public Domain.

All other photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

Sandra Wagner-Wright. Rama’s Labyrinth. Wagner-Wright Enterprises. 2015.

The post RAMA’S LABYRINTH – Free Kindle Edition April 2-6 first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

There’s one more destination I want to tell you about from my recent trip to Kolkata. Pareswanath Temple is a jewel of serenity.

My guide Anup Saha suggested we visit the temple and I’m so glad he did. As we walked up Badridas Temple Street in northeast Kolkata, I had no idea what to expect. The pathway is uncharacteristically immaculate. The doors on the left open into living quarters for Jain monks and nuns who live in the area near and beside Pareswanath Temple. The area is scrupulously clean.

This was my first visit to a Jain temple, and Pareswanath Temple is one of the most revered shrines in Kolkata, famous for its enthralling beauty and spiritual atmosphere.

As one approaches across the inlaid mosaic courtyard,

two lions guard the gate.

Just to the right inside the gate is this elephant with two riders.

Already I was impressed by this truly unique temple. Then I looked to my left to see the beautiful gardens that surround the temple complex.

Serenity in the middle of Kolkata. Beautiful color amongst the grey.

PARESWANATH TEMPLE

Pareswanath Temple is a jewel among its surroundings. Startling in its exterior beauty. [Yes, that’s me under the hat.]

Cross the courtyard to enter this temple built by Jain Rai Badridas Bahadoor Mookim in 1867.

The main shrine is dedicated to 10th Jain Avatar Sri Sitainath Ji. The deity Lord Shitainathji sits in the sanctum sanctorum, his forehead studded with diamonds.

The lamp fueled with ghee has burned continuously since 1867.

The interior dazzles with its intricate tiles, and paintings. Note the tiles on the right – not exactly traditional designs.

Chrystal chandeliers hang from intricately decorated ceilings.

In Kolkata’s bustle and traffic, it’s hard to believe such a serene place can exist. Perhaps that’s the point.

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Sign up for Sandra’s Newsletter. The newsletter comes out every Monday with a blog preview & any relevant book announcements. You can unsubscribe at any time. Your contact information won’t be given out. Sign up today for free “Out-Takes from Rama’s Labyrinth.”

Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

Pareswanath Temple – Swetambar. Kolkata City Tours

The post PARESWANATH TEMPLE – AN OASIS IN KOLKATA first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Sikkim entered American consciousness in 1963 when Hope Cooke married then Crown Prince Walden Thondup Namgyal. The marriage lasted ten years. I didn’t remember anything about Hope’s reign as Queen Consort until we arrived at the Nor-khill Hotel in Gangtok. Built in 1932 as a royal guest house, the lobby retains an opulent flavor. Pictures of the last royal couple of Sikkim hang throughout the hotel.

      Gangtok at an elevation of 5410 feet is the capital of Sikkim. Visitors fly into Bagdora airport and embark on a four hour drive over twisting roads to get to Gangtok. Our drive was twice as long due to landslides and heavier than usual traffic. At the border town of Rangpo, we stopped to get our permit for Sikkim.

Local guide Chandan

introduced me to the many monasteries near Gangtok. Our first stop was Ganeshtok Shrine, a Hindu temple in the midst of Buddhist Sikkim. We came for the view. Too bad it was a cloudy day.

But it must have also been an auspicious day. A couple made their marriage vows. The bride in red; the groom in western clothing. And everything recorded via a smart phone.

Nearby we went to Hanumantok Shrine, sacred to Lord Hanuman and famous for its view of the Kanchenjunga Peaks.

A few steps away, we visited Do Drul Chorten, a stupa built by Trulshik Rinpoche in 1945. One hundred eight prayer wheels surround the stupa. Legend says villagers invited Trulshik Rinpoche to exorcise the site of evil spirits. He agreed, and told villagers to bring certain items from their homes which he then buried at the bottom of the stupa. The spirits left.

Over bad roads and rushing water we drove up a one-track road until we reached the Seven Sisters Waterfall.

In addition to the falls, there was a food stall and “comfort station.” And then we drove uphill again. We passed large stacks of gravel by the road and people putting the gravel in the roadbed by hand.

At last we reached our destination: Phodong Monastery first built in the 18th century. It’s one of the six most important monasteries in Sikkim. The monastery houses 250 monks of the Kagyu lineage. On the way back down the mountain we stopped at the Labrang Monastery, once important to the Nyingmapa lineage of Buddhism. The monks built Phodong Monastery and continue its upkeep and services. The king built Labrang, now abandoned though local villagers look after it.

Rumtek Monastery is a large complex with monastic students, the temple, and Karma Shri Nalanda Institute. The Golden Stupa, crafted entirely from gold, is a reliquary for His Holiness the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa Rangjung Rigpe Dorje.

Nearer to Gangtok itself is Enchey Monastery, started in the mid-nineteenth century when the founding monk who could, it is said, fly and also perform the magical feats, arrived to make a hermitage. It is said that if you pray for something here, your wish will come true. Ninety monks from the Nyingma sect occupy the monastery.

At Enchey Monastery I found Nirvana, after a fashion, in the guise of Nirvana Cafe.

Tsuklakhang Monastery, located on the grounds of the former Royal Palace, is the last monastery I visited. Also known as the Royal Monastery, this site hosted many official functions. At New Year, which falls between Christmas and Valentine’s Day, there were huge celebrations. The royal family and their guests watched the festivities from the royal pavilion which is also where the king gave audiences.

It’s a quiet place now. No celebrations. Just a few monks chanting. To the side, near the Royal Pavilion, you can just glimpse the edge of former palace. It’s not Buckingham Palace, but for a time, it was Hope Cooke’s home.

Before we leave Gangtok, I want to share a few pictures from the market at the bottom of Lal Bazaar. Fruits, vegetables, and common household items are available here.

After this visit to Sikkim, I will always associate the Himalayas with monasteries. Circumstances prevented me from going beyond Gangtok, but I’m glad there was extra time to explore the local area.

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Photo of Hope Cooke, 1971, in the Public Domain. Wikimedia Commons.

All other Photos by Author. All Rights Reserved.

Labrang Monastery.

Phudang Monastery.

Nor-Khill Hotel. 

Cherie Burns. “Being a Queen Didn’t Quite Work Out, But on This Cooke’s Tour Hope Springs Eternal.” People. March 9, 1981.

Michelle Jana Chan. “The Himalayas: Trip of a Lifetime.” The Telegraph. Jan 22, 2016

Francine du Plessix Gray. “The Fairy Tale That Turned Nightmare? Review of Time Change by Hope Cooke.” Books. New York Times. March 8, 1981.

The post SIKKIM – LAND OF MONASTERIES first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

As you may recall from a previous blog about Kolkata, I went to that historic city in search of clues about Mary Pigot, the protagonist in my current project. Calcutta was the capital of the British Raj until December 1911 when British administrators removed to New Delhi, and buildings in Calcutta’s historic district remain much as they were.

Looking at my poorly drawn map where nothing is to scale, you can see the Hooghly River in the west with early Calcutta on its eastern banks. Fort William, the oldest structure, is surrounded by the Maidan, an open area. To the north is Dalhousie Square where we find three buildings Mary Pigot probably knew. Further north (not shown) are Bethune College and the Scottish College, both institutions Mary knew well.

ST. JOHN’S CHURCH, completed in 1787, was the second Church of England building in Calcutta. The first was within Ft. William’s walls. Maharaja Nabo Kotten Bahadur donated the land and Warren Hastings, Governor General of the British East India Company, laid the foundation stone in 1784. Architects adapted the design from St.-Martin-in-the-Fields (London), but added colonnaded side verandas to reduce glare from the sun.

At that time, matters of government were so minimal that William Hastings conducted affairs at this octagonal green table. The governor’s chair is still there.

ST. ANDREW’S KIRK, the official Scottish church, is on a different side of the square. It too was modeled after St.-Martin-in-the-Fields — and looks considerably more like the original structure. Scottish expatriates were a large part of Calcutta’s population, initially recruited by the East India Company. Their occupations included soldiers, merchants, agriculturalists supplying jute and indigo commodities, and missionaries from both the Church of Scotland and the Scottish Free Church. Mary Pigot’s employer was the Church of Scotland.

The Church of Scotland also sponsored what was then called the General Assembly’s Institution – after the church’s governing body. Mary’s nemesis, Rev. William Hastie, arrived to take charge of the college in 1878. In 1929 the name changed to SCOTTISH CHURCH COLLEGE. The institution is located on Hedua Square, previously known as Cornwallis Square.

BETHUNE COLLEGE is located on the same square. Mary Pigot taught here before taking up her position at the Scottish Orphanage for Girls. When we entered the gate, my guide had a word with the guards who said we could take exterior pictures. Just as I took a couple pictures one of the teachers rushed out. The guide and I ended up in the head teacher’s office. I could only guess at the conversation that ensued – firm words, gestures, smiles, shrugs. In the end, we thanked them and left. Who says researchers don’t have interesting experiences?

The key incidents in my project took place here in the Calcutta HIGH COURT. This building, constructed in 1872, was modeled after the 13th century Cloth Hall at Ypres, Belgium. The cloth hall was destroyed during World War I. Ironically, architects from Belgium came to Calcutta to copy the copy in order to reconstruct the building in Ypres. That reconstructed building is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The High Court is closed to visitors, but my guide Anup Saha spoke to the appropriate officials and gained permission for us to go inside. Like many structures, the building surrounds a courtyard. Offices and courtrooms surround the central space with open verandas for access.

What might Mary have thought as she entered the oldest court in India?

She walked up to this massive building with its red brick exterior, passed under the vaulted cloisters, climbed the stairs, and entered a small courtroom for the most dramatic experience of her life.

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Photo of Kolkata High Court by Paul Hamilton, Creative Commons Attribution. Wikimedia Commons.

Other photos and drawings by Author.

Bethune College, Kolkata

Calcutta High Court.

St Andrew’s Church. 

Scottish Church College

“Calcutta: A Brew of Old and New.” Independent. May 9, 2008

“Ypres Connection to Kolkata.” Heritage Structure of Bengal. July 11, 2012

The post CALCUTTA, MARY PIGOT & ME – Where She Was first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Calcutta is situated on the banks of the Hooghly (Hugli) River, a major distributary of the Ganges River. In Northern Bengal the Hooghly splits to form a large delta that empties into the Bay of Bengal.

The lower portions of the river were once navigable enough for large ocean vessels, which made it a desirable location when the East India Company built Calcutta.

The Maidan, literally “open field,” or parade ground, is proximate to Ft. William, originally constructed by the British East India Company in the 18th century and presently a military facility for the Indian Army. The Maidan itself is an urban park which includes Eden Gardens, the second largest cricket ground in the world.

St Paul’s Cathedral is at the southeastern end of the Maiden, near the Victoria Memorial. Completed in 1847, the church is noted for its Gothic architecture. Some modifications were made for the Indian climate. These include open verandas, and cane chairs rather than church pews.

St. Paul’s has what is said to be the finest stained glass in India, designed by Edward Burns-Jones and installed in 1880 after a cyclone blew out the original west window.

I doubt if Mary Pigot visited this church. The Scottish Ladies’ orphanage was to the north, on the opposite end of Central Calcutta. This location was close to the British enclave further south.

Calcutta’s civic center is north from the Maidan. Here is where the earliest colonial structures are found, clustered around what was once called Dalhousie Square after Viceroy, Lord Dalhousie. Originally from Scotland, Dalhousie served as Governor-General for the East India Company 1848-1856. He left office just before the Indian Rebellion of 1857. Today the Square is called B.B.D. Bagh. The initials B. D. D. stand for Benoy-Badal-Dinesh Bagh. In 1930 these three men killed the Inspector General of Prisons while he stood on a balcony of the Writers’ Building.

The Writers’ Building, completed in 1780, has outgrown both its name and its original design. The building began as a plain 3-story structure to house East India Company clerks (aka writers). There were nineteen residential quarters, each with three sets of windows to light the clerks’ desks.

In 1821, Fort William College took over the site. Trustees added a 128 foot veranda with Ionic columns, each 21 feet tall. Inspirational statues decorated the facade, including one of Minerva, Greek goddess of wisdom, on the top pediment. In 1857 the British government took over the administration of India, and converted the Writers’ Building into an administrative secretariat. The length of the Writer’s Building equals one side of Tank Square.

The term ‘tank’ is used in India to denote any man-made body of water. As Calcutta grew, sourcing clean water became an increasing challenge. In 1709 engineers converted an existing pond fed by a spring into a reservoir for “sweet” water. The resulting tank covered about 25 acres and supplied water to the growing city. The British called it the Great Tank, or the Red Tank. Today the tank is known as Lal Dighi (Red Pool) and is popular for recreational activities.

Did Mary Pigot spend much time in or around Dalhousie Square?

It’s hard to say. Most people in and around the Square had connections to British administration. And Mary was far to busy for idle wandering.

Next week we’ll visit some buildings I think Mary visited often, particularly the High Court.

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Map from a 1749 French Manuscript. Public Domain. Wikimedia Commons.

All other photos by Author. Hand drawn map by Author.

Srinath Perur. Writers’ Bldg, Kolkata. The Guardian. April 10, 2015.

The post KOLKATA, MARY PIGOT, & ME – Where She Wasn’t first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

One of the great things about the way I write historical fiction is the necessity of research travel. My current project took me first to London and Edinburgh to investigate written records [See blogs from July]. But a visit to the site of events in the story took me back to India, this time to the vibrant city of Kolkata [Calcutta] in the state of Bengal.

As very good luck would have it, I arrived as preparations were under way for this year’s Durga Puja, a festival honoring Goddess Durga. A fitting event from which to start my stories of this trip to India. In the featured image you see me gazing at one of the giant images of Goddess Durga’s lion being prepared for the festival.

Before describing the festival, let me tell you about Goddess Durga and the victory of good over evil she represents.

In the picture you see Goddess Durga with her vehicle, a lion, on the left and her defeated enemy, Mahisa, on the right.

THIS IS THEIR STORY

Once upon a time, there was a creature called Mahisa [buffalo] who had the head of a buffalo and the body of a man. How he came to be is a story for another day.

Mahisa wanted the god Brahma to give him the gift of immortality. To catch Brahma’s attention, Mahisa performed severe austerities. Mahisa’s devotion pleased Brahma who offered him a favor. When Mahisa requested immortality, Brahma promised no man would be able to kill Mahisa, which Mahisa thought was what he requested because no woman could kill a man like himself.

Assured of long life and gifted with immense strength and magical abilities, Mahisa became the demons’ leader and challenged the gods, robbing them of their offerings and defeating them in battle. To say the gods were angry would be an understatement. The gods came together and pooled their anger. Fire came from Brahma’s face; a flame from Shiva’s body, and dazzling blue light emanated from Vishnu. Tongues of fire appeared from the other gods. The ensuing mass of fire and light merged to create Goddess Durga. The god Himalaya gave Durga a lion for her vehicle; Vishnu gave her a discus as a weapon, and Shiva bestowed Durga with his trident. I could tell you about all the gifts each god gave Durga, but it would make the blog too long.

Suffice to say, Durga was extremely beautiful and each part of her body emanated energy from the gods.  When the gods told Durga the reason for her creation, the goddess laughed with such force that the earth trembled.

The earthquake’s roar terrified Mahisa and his demons. Mahisa sent men to find out the earthquake’s cause. They spied Durga in the forest wearing beautiful clothing and drinking wine from a golden cup. Awestruck, they immediately returned to Mahisa.

Excited by their descriptions of Durga’s beauty, Mahisa sent his prime minister with a marriage proposal. She refused Mahisa’s quest.

Mahisa sent a second messenger. Durga refused again. This time she became angry. Again the earth trembled. Durga was ready to fulfill the gods’ request. Mahisa sent his best soldiers to fight Durga. She defeated them. Mahisa decided to present himself to Durga. But instead of appearing as his true self, Mahisa transformed into a handsome man. Arriving at Durga’s hermitage, Mahisa told the goddess he was her true consort, saying: “I am the heroic buffalo, king of the demons, respected by gods; I hold this entire triple universe by the prowess of my own arms. I can assume any form I desire and can supply all sensual enjoyments. Choose me as your husband.”

Durga revealed her purpose was to kill him, and advised him either to flee to the netherworld or fight her. Mahisa continued his courtship. Durga repeated herself. Mahisa, believing himself immortal, chose battle.

IT WAS A BATTLE OF EPIC PROPORTIONS

Oceans overflowed.

Clouds broke into fragments.

Mountains fell from the sky.

Durga’s forces emerged victorious. Mahisa resumed his buffalo form. He struck men with his muzzle; trampled them with his hooves; lashed soldiers with his tail and used his breath to throw Durga’s fighters to the earth.

 DURGA BECAME ANGRY

She threw her noose over Mahisa to bind him.

Mahisa transformed into a lion. Durga cut off his head.

Mahisa became a man with a sword. Durga pierced him with her arrows.

Mahisa became an elephant and pulled Durga’s lion down with his trunk.

Durga cut off the elephant’s trunk.

Mahisa resumed his buffalo form and wounded Durga with his horns.

He used his tail to catch hold of the mountains and threw them at her.

Durga paused to fortify herself with a wine made from blood.

Her eyes became red and she laughed. “Roar and roar for a moment,” Durga said to her enemy, “while I drink this honeyed wine. The gods will soon roar when I slay you here.”

Durga leaped upon her enemy.

She kicked him in the neck with her foot

and spiked Mahisa with the trident given to her by Shiva.

When Durga struck Mahisa with her foot,

the demon began emerging from his own mouth.

Durga cut off his head and claimed her victory over evil.

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Next Week: Now that we know the reason for Durga Puja, next week we’ll look at the festival itself.

While in Kolkata, I stayed at the historic Oberoi Grand, of which more later, but I would like to take this opportunity to express gratitude to chefs Harmeet and Mayukh who were so mindful of my need for gluten free food.

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All photos property of Author.

Drawing of Durga Fighting the Demons, c.1785. Public Domain. Wikimedia Commons.

Hindu Myths translated from Sanskrit. Penguin Books. 1975

A. L. Dallapiccola. Hindu Myths. University of Texas Press. 2003

Bulbul Sharma. The Book of Devi. Penguin Books. 2013.

The post GODDESS DURGA SLAYS THE DEMON first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Diwali is a Hindu festival occurring between mid-October and mid-November. This year the celebration takes place from October 29 until November 1. Although there are variations in how the festival is celebrated, its purpose commemorates the victory of good over evil and light over darkness. It’s a time of family and friends dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi, the consort of Lord Vishnu.

Lakshmi is the goddess wealth and prosperity. Diwali is the time to invite her to your home to encourage these blessings in the year ahead. It’s important that the house is spotless, because Lakshmi visits the cleanest house first. Cleaning and decorating correspond with the first day of the festival, called Dhanteras. This is also the day for designing and creating Rangoli, creative floor designs done in sand or colored powder. If you think you might want to make one this year, here’s an example.

I’m struck by the color, beauty, and grace the design. Sadly, I’ve never progressed beyond stick drawings in chalk on the sidewalk.

The second day, called Choti Diwali, represents the festival day in miniature.

Lakshmi Puja, on the third day, is the most important day of Diwali. Account books are balanced. The day is set for the darkest night so that diyas can be set out to invite the goddess to come inside the house. Rangoli also serve as an invitation to family and friends. Doors and windows, balconies and other inviting surfaces are lit to dispel the darkness.

After the prayer rituals, people go outside to set off fireworks. Once those have pierced the darkness, people go inside for a feast followed by sweets. Favorite items are sweetmeats, generally sweet, fried confections. One of these called Lapsi is made from wheat, sugar, almonds, raisons, ghee (clarified butter), and cardamon powder. It looks fairly easy.

It is said that Diwali is the day when Goddess Parvati played dice with her husband Lord Shiva and declared that whoever gambled on Diwali would prosper in the coming year.

The fourth day, Padwa, marks the beginning of the new financial year, and is also the day celebrating the mutual love and devotion of husbands and wives.

And on the last day brothers and sisters celebrate their bond. Sisters perform puja for their brothers and prepare their favorite foods. Brothers respond by giving gifts to their sisters.

Words don’t fully describe Diwali’s fun. This video, though a bit long, shows how one family celebrates the days of Diwali.

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Featured Image: Rangoli of Lights by Subharnab Majumdar. Creative Commons Attribution. Wikimedia Commons.

Pictures:

Sri Lakshmi by Bazar Art. 1940s. India Public Domain. Wikimedia Commons.

Worship by PJeganathan. Creative Commons Attribution. Wikimedia Commons.

Diya by Karanchheda13495. Creative Commons Attribution. Wikimedia Commons.

Food by NivediM. Creative Commons Attribution. Wikimedia Commons.

Diwali Festival

Diwali: Festival of Lights. About Religion.

Seal Sukhadwala. “What’s eaten at Diwali.” The Guardian. Oct 25, 2011.

The post DIWALI – A FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Rama’s Labyrinth is a biographical historical novel. We meet Rama in India when she’s a child of eight and follow her through her marriage, widowhood, and travel to England and America. The reader is with Rama when she establishes a school for child widows, converts to evangelical Christianity, and builds a community for famine victims near Pune, India. It’s an amazingly captivating journey.

Almost as exciting as the book itself is the video trailer, which captures the essence of Rama’s struggle.

There’s also a Pinterest Board for Rama’s Labyrinth. I’ve been posting roughly one photo per day of the people and places associated with Pandita Ramabai’s life.

New Look for the WebPage

No doubt you’ve noticed that the webpage has undergone a modernizing refreshment. The camel is having a well-deserved rest, and we’ve left the desert for a land of tropical flowers. Take a few moments to look around. Let me know what you think.

The post Rama’s Labyrinth first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

The Taj Mahal wasn’t just a mausoleum for Mumtaz Mahal. It was a Mausoleum and Gardens, equally important parts of a whole. Designers laid out Charbagh Gardens, a style that envisioned the gardens of Paradise. Such gardens were filled with fragrant flowers, voluptuous fruits and exotic birds. There were four rivers: one of water; one of milk; one of honey, and one of wine.

Gardens at the Taj Mahal covered an area 984 feet by 984 feet. Each smaller garden within the Charbagh was divided into sixteen flowerbeds for a total of sixty-four beds. The garden held four hundred plants. These included Cyprus trees symbolizing death and fruit trees representing life. Favored Mughal fruit trees were mango, lemon, and pomegranate. Sweet smelling hibiscus and jasmine plants perfumed the air.

As the foliage grew, it masked the monument, which revealed itself slowly to visitors.

As time passed, both the monument and the gardens fell into disarray. The approach, as described by Lord Curzon, was one of “dusty wastes and squalid bazaars.”

The first British effort to restore the Taj Mahal was undertaken by Lord Minto, Governor General (1807-1813). He raised funds by selling the garden’s produce and later attached the revenue from villages attached to the Taj Mahal. But any gains were short-lived.

In the late nineteenth century, British visitors enjoyed picnicking on the grounds. When lunch was finished, they sauntered over to the monument with the chisels and dug out the precious stones and minerals that still remained. The mosque flanking the Taj Mahal and a guesthouse were rented out as honeymoon cottages. Fashionable society attended balls with music by a military band arranged on the platform.

Such pastimes stopped when Lord Curzon became Viceroy of India. Curzon was said to be an arrogant man. A parody of his days at Oxford depicted the young scion introducing himself: “My name is George Nathaniel Curzon, I am a most superior person.”

Nevertheless, Lord Curzon cared deeply about Indian monumental architecture, particularly the Taj Mahal which he visited annually. He believed the massive buildings testified to India’s ancient status and the British role as their guardian and preserver. In short, Curzon was on a civilizing mission. He was the first restorer to look at the gardens, and he was horrified.

Lord Curzon ordered the trees removed. In common with most British in India, he believed gardens should be flat and formal, paving the way to the monument. Gardens provided vistas, not texture. The flowers had to go too. Simple grass accented the waterways.

At the dedication of the restored Taj Mahal in 1909 Lord Curzon waxed poetic on his accomplishment. There was now a beautiful park, “and the group of mosques and tombs, the arcaded streets and grassy courts that precede the main building are once more as nearly as possible what they were when completed by the masons of Shah Jehan.” Lord Curzon might be forgiven if he thought the gardens even better than those of the Shah Jehan.

Lord Curzon personally funded parts of the Restoration. “Since I came to India we have spent upon repairs at Agra alone of sum of £40,000. Every rupee has been an offering of reverence to the past and a gift of recovered beauty of the future.”

In particular, Lord Curzon personally donated two chandeliers. When the Jats of Bharatapur invaded Agra in the eighteenth century, they took two chandeliers, one silver and one agate, from above the royal cenotaphs. Lord Curzon took it upon himself to procure replacements.

On his way home, Lord Curzon stopped in Cairo to procure a properly Saracenic lamp to hang in the tomb chamber. The bronze lamp, modeled after one that once hung from Sultan Baibars II’s mosque, is inlaid with gold and silver. Inscribed in a script that matched that of the original calligraphers, the engraving proclaims “Presented to the Tomb of Mumtaz Mahal by Lord Curzon, Viceroy 1906.”

The second chandelier, weighing one hundred thirty-two pounds, was placed in the Royal Gate, the entrance through which tourists pass into the grounds. Last August, the chandelier fell. No one was injured.

Acknowledgements:
Featured Image: Photo of Taj Mahal taken by Francis Frith in 1874. Public Domain. Wikimedia Commons.

Francis Frith (1822-1898) was a successful commercial photographer who noted that armchair travelers would purchase photographs taken away from the European tourist routes.

BBC. Taj Mahal Chandelier Crash Investigation Ordered. Aug 22, 2015. Here.

http://www.tajmahal.org.uk/history.html

“Garden’s in Agra’s Taj Mahal still feel British.”Economic Times. Here.

“When Taj was Green.” The Pioneer. May 26, 2013. Here.

Eugenia W. Herbert. Flora’s Empire: British Gardens in India. University of Pennsylvania Press. 2011.

Annabel Lopez. “Taj Mahal’s history of repair and restoration.” July 3, 2007. Here.

Rajaram Panda. Taj Mahal. New Delhi: Mittal Publication. N.D.

The post TAJ MAHAL GARDENS & LORD CURZON first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

Approximately 20.4 million Americans, 8.7 percent of the adult population, practice yoga. I’m one of them. Without the work of B. K. S. Iyengar, it’s unlikely most practitioners would even know yoga exists, let alone be able to do the poses. He was the teacher who introduced the props found in most yoga studios – straps, bolsters, blocks and blankets. Everything flows from proper alignment, and if someone needs assistance to meet that goal, he or she should have it. Mr. Iyengar passed away last Wednesday, August 20.

The child once told he would not live past the age of 20, lived to be 95. The boy born into poverty became one of Time Magazine’s “100 Most Influential People.”

“Yoga is the golden key that unlocks the door to peace, tranquility and joy.”

Every life has turning points and milestones. Opportunities offered. Some accepted, some declined. Some pursued with determination, others with half-hearted enthusiasm. B. K. S. Iyengar recognized such moments and responded with integrity. Here are two stories.

When he was sixteen, B. K. S. Iyengar accepted an invitation from his brother-in-law. Tirumalai Krishnamacharya, the man often referred to as the Father of Modern Yoga, invited his teen-age relative to join the Maharaja of Mysore’s royal school at Jaganmohan Palace. B. K. S. Iyengar discovered yoga and used it to bring his physical body to optimum fitness.

“To my best violin teacher”

In 1952 renowned violinist Yehudi Menuhin was giving a series of concerts in India at the invitation of Prime Minister Jawaharal Nehru. As it happened, the previous year, while waiting to see his osteopath, Mr. Menuhin found a pamphlet about yoga. Mr. Menuhin, who suffered a variety of muscular and skeletal ailments, was intrigued.

When Mr. Menuhin met Prime Minister Nehru, he mentioned the book. The prime minister smiled and dared the violinist to stand on his head. Menuhin did so. Delighted, Nehru also went into the pose. The story made headlines throughout India. Many yoga teachers offered their services to Menuhin. At some point, Menuhin discussed the situation with the wife of cardiologist Rustam Vakil. She recommended the family guru, B. K. S. Iyengar.

Menuhin requested a meeting, but had a full schedule. He could only spare five minutes at 7:00 in the morning. Those five minutes stretched into three and a half hours. Menuhin became a lifelong student, invited B. K. S. Iyengar to join him in Switzerland and introduced him to students and prominent people, including then eighty-year-old Elisabeth, Queen Mother of Belgium who allegedly said, “If you can’t teach me to stand on my head, you can leave.” Of course, B. K. S. Iyengar met the challenge.

In 1954, Yehudi Menuhin presented B. K. S. Iyengar with a watch to commemorate their time together. On the watch’s back was an inscription: “To my best violin teacher.”

Mr. Iyengar’s reputation began to spread. In 1966, he published Light on Yoga with a forward by Yehudi Menuhin. The small book featuring 200 poses has been translated into seventeen languages and never gone out of print.

“How can you know God if you don’t know your big toe?”

B. K. S. Iyengar didn’t introduce yoga to the United States, but he made the practice practical and accessible.  “The qualities demanded from an aspirant are discipline, faith, tenacity and perseverance to practise regularly and without interruptions.” [1] Anyone can do yoga, provided he or she is committed to the practice. As Patricia Walden recalled in 2000, “Iyengar was, like, ‘Stand on your feet. Feel your feet.’ He was so practical.”

The term Iyengar became so common, Oxford Dictionary compilers made Mr. Iyengar’s name a noun:

Iyengar

Syllabification: I·yen·gar
Pronunciation: /ēˈyeNGɡär

NOUN

A type of ashtanga yoga focusing on the correct alignment of the body, making use of straps, wooden blocks, etc. as aids to achieving the correct postures.

And then, in 2004, Time Magazine named B. K. S. Iyengar as one of the “100 Most Influential People” in the world.

B. K. S. Iyengar blessed us and changed many lives. His was a life well-lived.

Acknowledgements:

Featured Photo: B. K. S. Iyengar. Photo by Mutt Lunker, 2004. Creative Commons Attribution. Wikimedia Commons.

Statistic on American yoga practitioners from “American Yoga: How Many People Practice in the United States?” Huffington Post. Dec 7, 2012. here

Note [1]. B. K. S. Iyengar. Light on Yoga. 1966. p.57.

Iyengar Entry. Oxford Dictionaries

Patricia Walden quotation taken from Ellen Barry. “B.K.S. Iyengar, Who Helped Bring Yoga to the West, Dies at 95” New York Times, Aug. 20, 2014. Access here. More on Patricia Walden here.

Anon. “BKS Iyengar Obituary.” Mail & Guardian. Aug 21, 2014. here.

Kofi Busia. The maestro and the Queen. here.

Editor. “Yoga Loses Luminary BKS Iyengar” Aug 20, 2014. Yoga Journal. here

Ninmala George.“Obituary: B.K.S. Iyengar.” Aug 23, 2014. Washington Post. here

Harshith Mallya. “Six Life Lessons from B. K. S. Iyengar.” Aug. 21, 2014. Your Story. here

Michael Richards.“B.K.S. Iyengar.” April 26, 2004. Time Magazine. here.  

Ayesha Venkataraman.“B.K.S. Iyengar: The gurugi who brought yoga to the masses.” Aug 23, 2014, Aljazeera America. here 

The post “GIVE MORE THAN YOU TAKE” first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.

When I was fourteen, my mother decided I would take Latin. It wasn’t a successful language choice. I saw no reason to learn a language no one spoke. On the other hand, I saw even less reason to get in trouble by failing the class. I discovered that while I wasn’t too good at grammar, I could memorize vocabulary lists. Even better, I found dual language books – the ones with opposing pages. The left side was, in this case, Latin. The right side was in English. Armed with these tools, I could score a B grade on the tests, which like Caesar’s Gaul were usually in three parts: Vocabulary, Grammar, and Translation. If I knew enough vocabulary, and read the dual language book on the assigned section of Caesar’s account of conquering Gaul, I could answer the questions. In hindsight, I suspect the teacher was on to me. And she knew what would happen.

My plan backfired. I did so well in first year Latin, my mother decided I would go on to the second year. It was a disaster. Lots of tears on my side and shaking of the head on hers. And, to make matters worse, while I and my fellow prisoners suffered what seemed like the most boring class in the universe, the students in the German class down the hall got to sing folksongs. A sort of “learning by doing” concept, I suppose. Ah, yes, I thought. I should be taking German.

Beware of what you wish for. We moved. I changed schools. Good News: the new school didn’t offer Latin. Bad News: I still had to take a language. Good News: they had German. Bad news: the teacher didn’t play the guitar. This was the “memorize the weekly dialogue and do language drill” German. No singing whatsoever. On the upside, I had a ear for German. I still didn’t have a knack for grammar, but I knew which ending sounded correct. Easy peasy.

Based on the illusion that I could “do” German, I declared a German major when I entered college.

Big mistake. Turns out, at a certain point you need grammar, or you can’t write essays in a foreign language.

Oddly enough, those memorized German dialogues were really helpful when traveling in Europe. I could order food, find the bathroom, and converse at a six-year-old level. Woo Hoo!

It’s too bad I didn’t stick with German and become bilingual, because recent studies demonstrate that bilingual speakers can stave off up to three forms of dementia (Alzheimer’s, frontotemporal dementia, and vascular dementia) for 4.5 years. The effect is better if the speakers use both languages daily. In other words, switching between languages and concepts keeps the brain fitter longer. And, these people are better at prioritizing and multi-tasking. [Hmmmm. Does that mean multi-lingual Europeans have less chance of getting dementia than monolingual Americans?]

Learning a new language is only one of many tools being recommended to stave off dementia and a new chorus of “she can’t find her keys.” But there’s another even more important reason to learn a language: Communication. I figure it’s too late to do much about my brain waves, but still time to connect with people.

Last fall the Handsome Bloke and I made our fourth visit to India. Once again I felt frustrated by my inability to communicate. Most Indians speak a certain amount of English, but at this point, it’s only common courtesy to be able to say something more than “hello,” “good-bye,” and “thank you.” I promised our hosts and myself that before our return, I would be able to say at least 20 words.

How’s that working out?

Excruciatingly slowly. I purchased the Rosetta Stone program for Hindi. It uses pictures, and has the student repeat words, and point at the correct picture. Things like that. And, it’s fun. Unfortunately, I seem to forget the words as soon as I turn off the program.

“OMG.” *head bang* “It’s Latin all over again.”

And then a miracle happened. Last night, the Handsome Bloke said something and I was agreeing with him. And the word just fell out of my mouth.

“HAAN”

It’s like HAH with a long sound. HAAN – yes.

A small word, but one that came out of my mouth without engaging my brain.

There’s also a word for ‘no’. NAHI  But that’s the answer to a different question.

So, I now know five words – only fifteen more to go.

How about you? Are you multi-lingual? Can you find your keys? What language, if any, would you like to learn? Leave a comment.

Featured Image by Eugen Nosko, provided by Deutsche Fotothek, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Germany, Wikimedia Commons

For more information, check:

Alok Jaha. “Being Bilingual May Delay Alzheimer’s and Boost Brain Power.” The Guardian. Feb. 18, 2011. http://www.theguardian.com/science/2011/feb/18/bilingual-alzheimers-brain-power-multitasking Accessed Feb 24, 2014

Jonel Aleccai. “Speaking Second Language Delays Dementias.” November 6, 2013. http://www.nbcnews.com/health/aging/speaking-second-language-delays-dementias-even-illiterate-study-finds-f8C11544770 Accessed Feb 24, 2014

Sarah Wildman. “Using Language to Combat Dementia.” http://www.aarp.org/health/conditions-treatments/info-02-2011/using-language-to-combat-dementia.html Accessed Feb 24, 2014

The post LEARNED A NEW LANGUAGE LATELY? first appeared on Sandra Wagner-Wright.